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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="http://www.automedia.com/cs/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>Engine</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/16.aspx</link><description /><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2007.1 (Build: 20917.1142)</generator><item><title>engine rattling</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/3200.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 16 Aug 2009 00:34:04 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:3200</guid><dc:creator>junglejim</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/3200.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=3200</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I was on my way home from town today and I was driving my 1995 mercury villager. All of a sudden my oil light came on and my lifters started rattling. I drove it slow the 1/2 mile to home and I checked the oil and it was in the safe zone but the lifters still rattle. What would make it do that all of a sudden. I have 195,00 miles on the van and I love to drive it but now it has me worried. Has anyone had this problem ?&amp;nbsp; thanks&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;jim&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>serpentine belt configuration 1997 buick park ave ultra supercharged</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/3054.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 28 Jun 2009 16:45:22 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:3054</guid><dc:creator>tunbridge</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/3054.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=3054</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;my tensioner melted belt snapped alt water pump powersteering all out,do not have belt pattern on hood,also looks like i have to remove motor mount to re install...any input????&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>oil</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/811.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 20 Feb 2007 00:22:51 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:811</guid><dc:creator>leegee</dc:creator><slash:comments>5</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/811.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=811</wfw:commentRss><description>&amp;nbsp;I have a 1990 Lincoln with 94,450miles on it and it has been maintaned well and oil has been changed regularly, But now as the miles get&amp;nbsp; higher I hear that the synthetic oil is the way to go is this a good idea or is it dangerous for a engine that has always had regular oil and at that mileage? I would like to put in the syn.oil for I read it is better and helps the engine to last longer and smoother? Is this the truth of a sales pitch even though I hear from people that have changed, can someone give me the REAL truth and if I should do it the next time I change the oil and if there is any tricks I should know about doing this the right way along with the filter, and should anything else be changed at that time to help the engine ajust to the new "Blood" so to speak, Thanks to who ever answers this.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; </description></item><item><title>please help 2001 dodge ram</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/3030.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 23 Jun 2009 17:36:08 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:3030</guid><dc:creator>painter969</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/3030.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=3030</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;my truck will run fine then suddenly die on me,all the dash gauges fail except for the digital,i get a code on my odometer that reads No Bus.I have already replaced the coil pack,after sitting for sometimes hours it will start and run fine till the same thing happens again,which could be 10 mins.up to 3hours&amp;nbsp; one time HELP&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>2 problems  with my pick up</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2709.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 30 Jan 2009 19:46:16 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:2709</guid><dc:creator>luis</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2709.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=2709</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;hello i have two problems with my pick up gmc sierra 1990, &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; #one&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; when i start the engine first thing in the morning it makes a really bad noise&amp;nbsp; that comes from the engine like a dry pistonor like if no oil is inside the engine and then goes away after five minutes if is to cold some times longer some times lest time but seems like if is getting worst. &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; the other problem is that my check engine light comes on some times and some times wile im driving and if i stop at a stop light my truch turns off by it self( the engine dyes) and if y try to re startet it i have to stop on the gas other ways wont starti have a carburator but it is a fuell injection i never use to etep on the gas to starter it up can some body help me please thank you.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>1997 Ford Thunderbird</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2702.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 27 Jan 2009 10:28:05 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:2702</guid><dc:creator>shark311</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2702.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=2702</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Where is the crank sensor located on a 97 Thunderbird?&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>single mom working on car "help" ?</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2475.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 20 Nov 2008 01:31:08 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:2475</guid><dc:creator>tigerstailtea</dc:creator><slash:comments>3</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2475.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=2475</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;When I accelerate my car makes a &amp;quot;air sucking&amp;quot; sound I know that sounds funny but thats the only way I know how to describe it.&amp;nbsp; Air in take valve? Air filter? Its not a fan belt the sound isnt that sharp.&amp;nbsp; Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>engine "buck"</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1767.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 22 Dec 2007 04:34:29 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1767</guid><dc:creator>caravans4</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1767.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1767</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;P&gt;My engine starts up fine but while its idling or running on the road at low idle or possible going up a hill slowly there might be an occasional tremor of buck coming from what seems the bottom of the engine.&amp;nbsp; Any ideas what may be the cause of this?&lt;/P&gt;</description></item><item><title>Do I need a new engine?</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2000.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 08 Mar 2008 17:35:20 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:2000</guid><dc:creator>Dave from Mass.</dc:creator><slash:comments>3</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2000.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=2000</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 toyota tacomah.&amp;nbsp; I pulled the cylinder head for what I thought was a blown gasket, but it turns out the head was cracked in 5 places.&amp;nbsp; It seems coolant has been getting into #2 and #3 cylinders and they stopped firing, which is when I noticed the problem.&amp;nbsp; The coolant was recently low, I found out because the heater wasn&amp;#39;t working, but the temp guage was high, but not in the red &amp;quot;overheated&amp;quot; zone, and the light never came on.&amp;nbsp; I drained the case, and there was no sign coolant in the engine oil.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;My question is, does the cracked head itself indicate bigger problems for the engine?&amp;nbsp; Should I replace it?&amp;nbsp; Or should I just put a new head on and keep this one going.&amp;nbsp; I can&amp;#39;t afford a new truck and I can&amp;#39;t really afford even a used engine right now.&amp;nbsp; If a $700 head keeps me going for another year or 2, I think it would be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;Any advice?&amp;nbsp; Thanks to all. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>turn my little s10 to a big s10</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1690.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 17 Nov 2007 21:20:18 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1690</guid><dc:creator>estro</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1690.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1690</wfw:commentRss><description>i have a 4cyl s-10 and i have been thinking about going with a larger motor for moore speed and power. i have been told that i could go with a larger 350 small block. my question is, how much is it going to set me back on a high $ and on a low $.&lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;2001 chevy s-10 4cyl 5speed</description></item><item><title>honda odyssey engine slow to start</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1664.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 11 Nov 2007 20:42:27 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1664</guid><dc:creator>telly</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1664.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1664</wfw:commentRss><description>the engine turns without starting&lt;br /&gt;trying again will</description></item><item><title>4.0 to 5.4 swap on a 05 mustang</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1490.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 16 Sep 2007 23:17:07 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1490</guid><dc:creator>wiggy</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1490.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1490</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;P&gt;I have a 2005 V6 stang i really would like to grab some major horses out of it as of right know the car only has a coolair and exahust on it. I was wondering what would all have to be changed if i were wanting to go from a 4.0 to a 5.4 or if i can even do that... if some one could just point me in the right direction... it would help me alot..&lt;/P&gt;
&lt;P&gt;Thank you&lt;/P&gt;
&lt;P&gt;Wiggy&lt;/P&gt;</description></item><item><title>Engine Replacement or Repair....out of the chute in the right direction</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2447.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 04 Nov 2008 16:51:33 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:2447</guid><dc:creator>DHJR</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2447.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=2447</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Problem: Missing Oil pan drain bolt. Result: Driven 1/2 mile....froze up.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;Knowing the lack of oil was the culprit, knowing the vehicle was in excellent condition visually and mechanically, how should one proceed....repair/rebuild/reconditioned...etc etc?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;2000 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl. 116k.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Scratched main bearings problem</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2429.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 23 Oct 2008 12:54:06 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:2429</guid><dc:creator>InNeedOfHelp</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2429.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=2429</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I have been rebuilding Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 engines for three years. &amp;nbsp;We have done many successful rebuilds. &amp;nbsp;The last 8 engines all appear to have a bearing issue. &amp;nbsp;We are seeing scratches on the main bearings. &amp;nbsp;A typical response would be that there is grit in the motor. &amp;nbsp;In an effort to determine the source of this problem we have painstakingly gone through every cleaning procedure and examined every component of the engine before assembly. All of the machinists have 25-35 years of experience. &amp;nbsp;I am confident in the machine work that is being done. &amp;nbsp;We have checked and re-checked everything before and during assembly. &amp;nbsp;I am at a total loss and need information. &amp;nbsp;We are spinning the engine on an electric test stand and after an hour we see scratches on the bearings. &amp;nbsp;We have been using the Brad Penn 30 wt. break in oil. &amp;nbsp;We use a Fram oil filter. Any ideas of what we could be missing or not aware of? &amp;nbsp;We rebuild many engines and have no issues with any engines other than the Austin Healey. &amp;nbsp;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>motorcraft 2100 carb</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2423.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 20 Oct 2008 01:36:49 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:2423</guid><dc:creator>fireguylksfords</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2423.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=2423</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Have a 65 Galaxie, 289 with 2100 Carb.&amp;nbsp; Rebuilt it.&amp;nbsp; All passages seem to be clear.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Need to set float much lower than spec or it runs noticably rich, particularly at idle.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Does not respond to idle mixture adjustment the way it should.&amp;nbsp; ie won&amp;#39;t stall when mixture&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;screws turned all the way in.&amp;nbsp; Need to run it with mixture screws turned 2/3 - 1 turn out from &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;closed position.&amp;nbsp; Strangely, car seems to run ok - starting, idle &amp;amp; no evidence of starvation&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;on highway.&amp;nbsp; Would like to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>2002 dodge stratus timing belt replacement</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2364.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 14 Sep 2008 14:28:37 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:2364</guid><dc:creator>funred</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2364.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=2364</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;what are the marks for a 2002 dodge stratus have got the belt on but can not find what the marks shold be.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>valve timing. 1998 volvo s40 2.0l</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2330.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 27 Aug 2008 06:31:46 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:2330</guid><dc:creator>shaan</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/2330.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=2330</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;pls help. how do u set the valve/camshaft timing when replacing the cams. there are no reference marks visible .&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>84 Ford f150 Engine swap</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/309.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 23 Nov 2006 23:03:33 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:309</guid><dc:creator>zach_orr</dc:creator><slash:comments>3</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/309.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=309</wfw:commentRss><description>I got a 1984 Ford F-150&amp;nbsp;4WD truck with a&amp;nbsp;6 Cylinder 4.9 L engine. Is it possible to swap in a 351 Windsor?</description></item><item><title>3.8L mustang to a 4.6L</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1168.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 08 Jun 2007 22:55:04 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1168</guid><dc:creator>O2sleeper</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1168.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1168</wfw:commentRss><description>I just bought a wrecked 02 4.6L mustang to swap into my 02 3.8L. Is there any headaches i should know about or any problems anyone knows any shortcuts to before i start?&lt;br&gt;</description></item><item><title>1997 Jetta 2.o ltr</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1530.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 29 Sep 2007 02:29:55 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1530</guid><dc:creator>Lenny</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1530.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1530</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;font face="Courier New"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; Does any one know if this is an interference type engine? In other words if the timing belt breaks will the valves and pistions make contact??&lt;br&gt;&lt;/font&gt;</description></item><item><title>Replacing water pump 2001 Xterra</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1688.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 16 Nov 2007 03:03:04 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1688</guid><dc:creator>elmo2227</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1688.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1688</wfw:commentRss><description>is it necessary to remove the thermostat housing when I replace the right head gasket, water pump, intake manifold and timing belt on a 2001 Nissan Xterra? How do I replace the water pump?</description></item><item><title>2000 FORD FOCUS 106,000 MILES</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1614.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 29 Oct 2007 17:59:38 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1614</guid><dc:creator>MGRAT</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1614.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1614</wfw:commentRss><description>A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO I STARTED TO HAVE PROBLEMS WITH THE WAY MY CAR WAS RUNNING. SO I BROUGHT IT IN FOR TUNE UP. UNFORTUNATELY THE PROBLEM CONTINUES. WHEN THE CAR GETS IN THE 40-50 MPH RANGE IT STARTS TO BUCK ESPECIALLY WHEN GOING UP HILLS. SOMETIMES i CAN GET PAST THAT RANGE BUT THEN ITS 48-50'S. I DO NOT HAVE ANY LIGHTS ON OR CODES. CAN THIS BE A IGNITION COIL PROBLEM? </description></item><item><title>1985 Cadillac HT4100</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1776.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 27 Dec 2007 16:16:36 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1776</guid><dc:creator>mildeu</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1776.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1776</wfw:commentRss><description>I have just purchased a beautiful 1985 Cadillac Eldorado, having looked at a couple of on-line comments, I am led to believe that there may be several issue with this engine.....My question are there replacement engines available and is this feasable such as the Cadillac North Star engine </description></item><item><title>97 pontiac grand am neverending repairs</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1792.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:42:39 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1792</guid><dc:creator>motorhead69</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1792.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1792</wfw:commentRss><description>please help if you can. i had a tune up on this car before planning a trip it ran fine before this.&lt;br&gt;about a week later it died. i had a bunch of work done after this including but not limited to cat convert. o2 sensor fuel system overhaul&amp;nbsp; filters and such. keeps patching the problem for a little bit. now it's back and dumping fuel off the burn and loss of power pinging and skipping with weird smells. engine light alternates between blinking and solid lit. mechanic says bad head gasket and/ or tranny but no. this doesn't explain the fuel disorder. also took out plugs lasst night no fouling seems fine test plugs at 8-10 on voltmeter.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;please help $3000 in&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;  &lt;br&gt;</description></item><item><title>Piston Rings</title><link>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1806.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 04 Jan 2008 00:32:18 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">e7b5b0b2-f31d-4570-9df0-8ed45f950ef3:1806</guid><dc:creator>arush71</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/thread/1806.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://www.automedia.com/cs/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=16&amp;PostID=1806</wfw:commentRss><description>I am building a 289 cu in engine for my 66 mustang.&amp;nbsp; I purchased new pistons (Mahle) with file to fit rings.&amp;nbsp; My problem is the oil expander ring is to long.&amp;nbsp; When I put it in the cylinder to check the gap the only way it fits is for the ends to over lap. I&amp;nbsp; checked the gap on all the other rings in all the cylinders but do I also need to gap the expander and is it OK to wack off about 1/8 inch. What gap should it be set at. </description></item></channel></rss>