Restoration

Clean wheels are one detail that separates the real automotive enthusiasts from the wannabe crowd. When restoring an older muscle car, the factory-correct stylized steel wheels can be brought back to a concours showroom condition in an afternoon with little more invested than some elbow grease and a few rattle-cans of spray paint.

Elbow Grease
While doing a show-quality restoration, many musclecar owners are confronted with wheels that are pitted or rusty to start with. To maximize new paint adhesion and ensure its longevity on these worst- case-scenario surfaces, media blasting is the first step. Many restorers then paint the wheels. However, this requires that the tires be hand-mounted—tire-mounting machines will scrape the fresh paint from the top edges of the rims, defeating the restoration project. If the wheels are media blasted, a light coat of primer will suffice as a rust inhibitor until paint can be applied.

Painting Several light color coats will provide a smooth finish and prevent runs.
Cleaning the wheels is the first and most important step before painting. You will need Brillo or SOS-type soap pads, Scotch-Brite pads, Simple Green or a similar degreaser, 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper, and a hose.


Let the clean wheels completely sun dry or blow them dry with compressed air before applying any paint. The scuffs from the Scotch-Brite and soap pads provide a good surface for the new paint to adhere to. Deep scratches should be sanded smooth with 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Several light color coats will provide a smooth finish and prevent runs.


To refinish the Chevy Rally rims shown here, we used semi-flat black for the backsides of the wheels and Rally Wheel Silver for the front. Other items needed include a piece of thin, flexible cardboard to use as a wheel mask.

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Photo Guide

These Rally wheels were caked with disc-brake dust, road grime and the wrong silver paint color. Luckily, they showed no signs of rust so a good clean-up and new paint will do the trick. If rust or pitting is present, begin by media blasting the wheel to bare metal.

The tire breaker bar is used to break the tire's bead around the wheel surface. It will also lift the rubber from the wheel but tends to scrape the top of the wheel's surface.

Products used for this at-home Rally wheel restoration include a couple cans of Eastwood semi-gloss black, Eastwood Rally Wheel Silver, some steel-wool soap pads and a couple of Scotch-Brite pads.

Begin by soaking the rim with Simple Green. Then vigorously clean with soap pads to remove heavy dirt and grime from both sides. Hose off the dirt, clean again with a Scotch-Brite pad, then thoroughly cleanse the surface.

Allow the wheels to dry thoroughly, then insert a piece of thin cardboard into the space between the tire and the wheel lip. Several passes around the wheel yield a nicely painted surface with no overspray on the tire.

The same technique is used to spray the silver. Light overspray from the metallic paint might settle on the rubber, but it can be easily wiped off with a Scotch-Brite pad when the painting is done.

Several light coats produce a better end result. Mask off the valve stem with masking tape prior to painting.

Wait for the paint to dry before removing the valve stem tape. Place a piece of paper or cardboard under the wheel while spraying. Always paint the black back side first and allow the silver to overspray onto the black.

The restored rim with the beauty ring and center cap in place: Even if the tires aren't replaced, this simple resto gives great rewards with minimal financial investment.



Related Articles
Welding Practice
Mounting Pre-painted Fenders
Emblem Installation
Rust Never Sleeps
Ragtop Restoration


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