Restoration

Most rear-wheel-drive cars and trucks will need the universal joints replaced at least once during their service life and possibly more often if it's a high-performance vehicle or equipped with a manual transmission. U-joint life can be extended with periodic maintenance by greasing the zerk fittings (if so equipped), but general abuse such as popping the clutch and full-throttle power shifts will shorten U-joint life considerably.

When to Replace
How do you know when it's time to replace U-joints? The telltale signs are a "clunk" in the driveline when you engage the clutch or move the shifter from Park to Drive with an automatic. That "clunk" usually indicates one of two problems: worn U-joints or too much pinion gear lash in the rear end. It's fairly easy to determine between the two by grabbing the driveshaft and trying to rotate it back and forth. If the pinion yoke has a lot of rotation, it's probably gear lash. If the driveshaft has play and rotates, it's probably worn U-joints.


Another telltale sign of worn U-joints is driveline vibration at higher speeds. The vibration usually starts at approximately 50 mph and increases proportionately with speed. At freeway speeds it can seem as much a "growling" noise as a vibration. If you are still unsure, have a mechanic check them out with one of those free 20-point safety inspections.

Install Tips
Any thorough restoration should include replacing U-joints, simply because they are fairly inexpensive to replace, and it will provide you with an opportunity to properly detail the driveshaft. It's a great Saturday afternoon project. There are a couple of tips to make the job easier and will make the repair longer lasting. First, purchase or rent a U-joint pressing tool. It will make the job go much easier and faster, and you won't damage the driveshaft trying to "pound" out rusted and stubborn U-joints. Secondly, purchase the highest quality U-joints you can find. Many inexpensive U-joints are inferior and won't hold up to the high impact loads associated with most musclecars.


We purchased a U-joint installation tool on sale from Harbor Freight for approximately $23. It's a rugged tool that also works on ball joints, and it paid for itself on this one job. The U-joints that we used are from Federal-Mogul and come with zerk fittings. They cost about $30 for the pair at our local auto parts store. We also sanded our driveshaft smooth and coated it with Eastwood Company's Spray Gray (Part No. 1258Z) for a great look. Follow along as we perform this U-joint replacement on our '69 Buick GS 400. The results were great!

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Photo Guide

Put the vehicle on a level surface, chock the front wheels, jack up the rear and install jackstands. Then you can remove the two U-bolts that fasten the rear U-joint and driveshaft to the pinion gear flange.

After removing the U-bolts, pry the driveshaft forward into the transmission with a large screwdriver or pry bar. It should slide forward enough on the tranny splines to drop down clear of the pinion yoke.

Drop the rear of the driveshaft until it clears the rear end and pull it rearward until the front driveshaft slip yoke pulls all of the way out of the transmission. Because the rear of the vehicle is raised, no trans fluid should leak out.

This car had the OEM U-joints replaced, so the U-joint is retained by internal C-clips instead of the injected ring of polymer the factory uses. If your vehicle's U-joints are retained by factory "goop," just press them out. (It takes a lot of force.)

After removing the C-clips, press the U-joint out one side of the 'shaft, remove the bearing cap and then press the U-joint and bearing cap out the other side. After both bearing caps have been removed, the U-joint "cross" can be angled enough to remove it from the driveshaft.

U-joints are relatively inexpensive but have precision needle bearings. Purchase quality U-joints such as these Federal-Mogul parts which come with new C-clip retainers and zerk fittings.

The first step to reinstalling the new U-joints is to remove the bearing caps and needle bearings. Carefully "twist" the cap back and forth as you remove it and the bearings should stay in place. If not, use wheel bearing grease to hold them in place.

Slip the U-joint "cross" into the driveshaft bearing loops. It takes a little finagling to get the U-joint into position.

The new bearing caps are then pressed into the driveshaft with a U-joint press. We purchased this one from Harbor Freight on sale for about $23. When you're doing the job, it seems priceless. Make certain that the U-joint cross is aligned with the caps while pressing in place.

After pressing the new U-joints in place, the internal snap ring C-clips are pushed in place by hand. The U-joint must be perfectly centered in the driveshaft to install the C-clips.

On the transmission end of the driveshaft, the slip yoke must be installed on the other axis of the U-joint. It is the same procedure as installing the U-joint into the driveshaft.

The finishing touch is to screw in the zerk fittings that will enable you to grease the U-joints before driving the vehicle. Squirt the slip yoke with lubricant before sliding it back into the transmission. Re-attach the rear U-bolts, grease the U-joints and you're ready to ride!



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