Trunk Weather Sealing
Installing trunk weather stripping
Have you ever opened your trunk and smelled a musty odor? Does the stench remain even after that gym bag is removed? Lifting up the carpet or mat might reveal mildewed carpet and rusted sheetmetal. There may even be small holes in the trunk floor.
GM A-body vehicles ('64-'72 Buicks, Oldsmobiles, Pontiacs, and Chevys) are particularly vulnerable to trunk floor rust caused by water leaking in due to poorly installed, missing, or rotted trunk weather stripping. This common problem can be fixed using the right products and proper installation steps.
Where To Begin
This trunk was only partially sealed—and the poor installation allowed water to sneak in and rust out the trunk floor. The '69 Pontiac shown here suffered from improperly installed weather stripping. We removed the rubber and found sanding dust from a previous paint job under the adhesive that sealed the replacement rubber. The channel was dirty and strewn with pieces of original rubber. This trunk was only partially sealed—and the poor installation allowed water to sneak in and rust out the trunk floor.
Removal Details
The channel must be scraped thoroughly to remove old adhesive and residue prior to installing the new seal. The adhesive needs a clean area to bond to in order for the seal to be weather-tight. It's almost impossible to remove every piece of old adhesive, but a careful, thorough cleaning should be sufficient. Consider using a releasing agent to help loosen stubborn areas, and then use black weatherstrip adhesive for securing the new rubber.
New Technology
The trunk weather stripping used here is an exact duplicate of the original factory piece with the exception of the actual rubber material, which is softer thanks to new technology. It fits tightly into the channel and doesn't affect trunk closure. Replacement weather stripping is available for most popular makes and models of cars and trucks.

Remove the old rubber using a long-shank, flat-blade screwdriver under the inside lip of the metal and scrape away the rubber strip and any dirt. Work carefully around the channel and trunk hinges so as not to damage the paint.

Carefully scrape away as much residue as possible from the channel. Wiping with adhesive remover will break down some of the old glue.

A kit includes more than enough weather stripping to completely go around the trunk. The rubber is soft enough that closing the trunk won't be a problem.

Black weather strip adhesive is easier to work with than yellow, and it blends in better should a little seep out from under the rubber. It can be purchased at most auto parts stores.

When installing new weather stripping, trial-fit each item before final installation. This way you can see how the rubber fits into the channel and where to put the adhesive.

For GM trunk rubber, always start at the center of the channel?at the trunk lock mechanism. There is ample rubber left over from this piece.

Apply a small bead of adhesive in the bottom corner of the channel lip. A formed piece of rubber fits tightly into this area, and the seal will be excellent. Do about two feet at a time so the adhesive won't set too soon.

Observe the intricate shape of the new rubber. The top left angle fits snugly into the channel lip and seals with the adhesive. The front part folds over when the trunk is closed to keep out wind and dirt.

When going around corners, do not stretch the rubber?simply push the weather stripping into the channel. Stretched rubber won't seal completely and can lead to trunk-lifting problems and possible leakage.

As you work your way up the side channel, simply push the rubber firmly into the adhesive with your fingers. After a few feet, you'll feel how the rubber is seating into the channel and you'll know if you're getting a good seal.

Here's how the rubber fits the shape of the channel and how the rollover top portion seals to the deck lid. Many aftermarket rubber items are exact duplicates of original factory parts and can be used on concours restorations or by everyday drivers.

After covering the circumference of the trunk channel, measure to accurately join the end pieces at the starting point. Again, don't stretch the rubber. A dab of adhesive on the rubber ends will hold them together after the glue sets. (Masking tape will prevent them from separating while drying.)
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