Restoration
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When restoring an older car, you may find the frame has a nasty coating of rust and peeling paint. Sandblasting can strip bare corroded metal for less than the cost of chemical dipping, and with less complications. Another advantage of sandblasting is that it cleans off the surface so thoroughly, a more accurate assessment of frame condition can be made.

Alternatives
There are other ways to do the job. In hot tanking the frame is lowered into a tank of caustic acid that eats away paint and corrosion. This works well on unibody cars where it is difficult to get a sandblaster into crevices and panels. Dipped items have to be cleaned with a neutralizing solution to prevent any remaining acid from attacking the new paint. Tubular frames are not ideal for this procedure, though, because they must have holes drilled in them to allow for hosing out the inside, in case acid has seeped in through porous welds.


Media blasting, which uses less aggressive blasting material than sandblasting, is ideal for aluminum or fiberglass panels that the harsher sand could eat through or damage. However, the softer media does not do a good job of rust removal. Old-fashioned sandblasting is still the procedure of choice for rusty metal.


Air pollution regulations have pushed most sandblasting operations to rural areas, and many now operate indoors to better control sand particles and to allow blasting in all types of weather.

Shop Around
Get several estimates and find a blaster who is comfortable with working on a collector-car chassis. Many sandblasters are car guys and work hard to do a quality job.

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Photo Guide

Here is a sports car frame (coated with surface rust) ready to be sandblasted at TTT Sandblasting in Weatherford, Texas. First all bolts and parts were removed. The blaster will want to know how smooth you want your chassis, as that will determine the blasting material used and the paint type.

Blasting starts at the top, and slowly the rust is cleaned off the chassis. The frame will also be turned over and blasted.

It takes about an hour to get it clean.

Close-up shows the "tooth" left in the metal by the blasting media. This will be filled in with primer and paint so the final finish is smooth. If overly-abrasive media is used, the frame will always look rough.

An air hose is used to blow the sand off the frame and out of holes and crevices before painting.

The clean chassis is primed with epoxy. This is a two-stage primer, which means it has paint and a separate catalyst that is added before it is shot. This makes it strong, but also dangerous to apply if you don't have the right equipment.

The bottom was shot first, allowed to dry and then turned over.

The primed top is allowed to dry overnight before it is handled or moved.

Eastwood Chassis Black is available in regular (semi-matte) and glossy finishes, and in spray cans and quarts. The regular semi-flat paint is used on the chassis itself, and the glossy version on components like trim and suspension parts. The cans are large and have a good spray pattern, allowing a smooth coat without using a paint gun and compressor.

Paint must be applied within two days of the primer, or you will have to sand the frame lightly before topcoating.

The completed chassis looks like new! Total price was $300 for the blasting and primer and $50 (plus shipping) for five cans of Eastwood Chassis Black. You will need to scrape or sand away paint that is in close-tolerance holes that bolts must pass through, as the paint will have partially filled them in. You will also need to run a tap through any threaded fittings (or you can put tape over these areas before you paint them).

For a smooth glossy finish, lightly sand the primer with a Scotchbrite pad until it is really smooth before painting.

This finished rollbar is smooth and glossy. When shooting gloss paint give the part several light coats, sand lightly and then add a final "wet" coat for more gloss.


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