CarCare
Continued from Page 1

Check the welds on the bumper. Sloppy weld splatters are an indication that the manufacturing process is not top quality. Make sure the stamping is equally high quality. The bumper surface at the points where it has been rolled or bent should be smooth with no ripples. New chrome finishes should be as smooth as glass. Pockmarks in new chrome are not good. Reputable companies back their products with long-term warranties, as much as five years or more. Some companies even offer lifetime guarantees against rust.

Mounting Systems
The best mounting systems are vehicle-specific and require no drilling. The no-drill installation systems are generally stronger because the new bumper is mounted at the optimum structural points determined by the truck's manufacturer. An added plus is the fact that a professional no-drill installation is less expensive or can be done by a competent do-it-yourselfer with conventional tools.


How about the other end of your truck? Modifications to the front bumper area come under two basic categories: grille guards that protect against scratches from off-road encounters with brush and provide protection to the headlight area, and those that are engineered for contact with something more substantial than brush. The latter, called bull bars or push bars, are heavy-duty steel front bumper replacements, some with mounts for a winch and auxiliary lights.


Bull or push bars add weight to the front end and are primarily used on off-road vehicles where their protective qualities justify the additional weight. On the other hand, grille guards provide protection to the grille, radiator and headlight area but are not intended to encounter rocks, trees, etc. unscathed.


The bottom line on bumpers: deciding between the two front-end options involves a realistic assessment of your driving conditions. Choosing a new rear bumper depends on how well your existing bumper lines up with your trailer hitch.


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