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Replacing Rotors
When your discs have seen better days
Robert Sharp / autoMedia.com
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> Replacement rotors are often covered in Cosmoline, a slippery, rust-inhibiting chemical. Use brake cleaner—not petroleum-based solvents—to clean rotors and all other brake parts.
> Keep grease, oil, and other lubricants off of the rotors' (and pads') friction surfaces. Clean these parts thoroughly when necessary.
> Newer vehicles might have electrical connections for the antilock brake system that need to be disconnected. Reconnect afterward.
> Calipers have to be removed from the vehicle to replace the rotors. Each caliper is typically secured with two bolts. Verify that you have the proper tool (sometimes an Allen wrench or even a large Torx bit) before beginning the job.
> Siphon some fluid from the master cylinder to prevent slosh-over when retracting the caliper pistons. Use a pump (not your mouth) and dispose of the old fluid properly. Never reuse old brake fluid. Top off the master cylinder after all components are back in place.
Copyright autoMedia.com 2000-2009
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Raise and secure the vehicle, then remove the tires and wheels. Unbolt the caliper fasteners, which could be Torx or Allen-head bolts.
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Remove the caliper, then suspend it from the vehicle with a wire or bungee cord. Never allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose, which can easily split.
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Pull the old rotor off the wheel studs. Clean the new one and slide it over the studs. Prepare the caliper for reinstallation by retracting the piston using a C-clamp on the inner pad or a special tool.
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Re-insert the brake pads (new pads were added here) and slide the caliper over the new rotor. Grease the caliper-contact area on the steering knuckle if instructed in the service manual.
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On some vehicles, the caliper mounting bolts aren't meant to be reused. On others, lubricate the bolts/sleeves/bushings with high-temp grease per the service manual. Tighten the bolts to spec and reverse the rest of the disassembly.
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