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These replacement pads came with anti-rattle shims. The job also requires basic hand tools, a C-clamp or pad spreader (shown) and high-temp grease.
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Pads squeal unless some sort of sound absorber separates them from the calipers. These pads came with adhesive-backed shims; aerosol sound-deadener sprays are also available.
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Raise and secure the vehicle on jackstands, then remove the wheels. Leave one side assembled for reference while working on the other. Begin by unfastening the caliper from its mount. The pins'/bolts' heads could be standard SAE or metric six-points, Allen/square or Torx.
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Retract the piston(s). This tool is intended for single-piston calipers; a C-clamp will also work. Using the tool of choice between the caliper body and the old inboard pad is preferable to the method shown here. Always inspect calipers for fluid leaks and signs of damage.
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On this Explorer, the pads clip into a metal bracket. Make sure that clips are reinstalled in their original location to avoid rattles.
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Pad lining thickness can often be viewed?and even measured?through the caliper's opening. These pads are worn perilously close to the wear-indicator tang (upper left). Uneven wear would indicate a caliper, caliper-pin or rotor problem.
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If the rotor appears gouged or otherwise damaged, either have it resurfaced or replace it. On fixed-mount systems, the pad bracket must be unbolted prior to rotor removal. If the rotor doesn't feel grooved and is relatively low-mileage, replace the pads at this point.
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If necessary, remove the rotor for resurfacing or replacement. Some rotors are located by their calipers, while others require removing the dust cap, spindle nut and washer to be freed. This is a good time to inspect and either replace or re-grease the wheel bearings.
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Reverse the disassembly process, adding the new pads. Consult a service manual for proper fastener specifications and any other recommendations. Remember to top off the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.
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