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If the drum won't pull off, use penetrating oil, a hammer, or retract the shoes by accessing the adjuster through the backing plate.
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Inspect all brake parts for signs of wear and fluid leakage, then spray everything with brake-parts cleaner. Many parts stores will "turn" drums with the purchase of new shoes. These drums had previously been turned, and the remaining lining thickness wasn't up to spec.
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Leave one side assembled for reference while working on the other. Begin by removing the return springs from the actuator. A special tool is available to make this easier than shown here.
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Unhook the actuator link from the anchor pin and secondary (rearward) shoe.
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Remove the hold-down spring assemblies. A special tool is also made to expedite this.
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Remove the actuator/springs assembly.
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Remove the adjuster, noting which direction it faces, and then the parking brake strut (above the hub and under the wheel cylinder). Clean the adjuster, then lubricate its threads with high-temp grease.
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Remove the old shoes, unclipping one of them from the e-brake actuator if necessary.
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These shoes didn't wear evenly. A frozen adjuster screw allowed only one shoe (right) to actually make contact with the drum.
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Clean the backing plate with brake-parts cleaner, smooth the shoe-contact points with emery cloth, then lube these areas with high-temp grease.
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Reverse the disassembly process to install the new shoes, taking care to keep the lining surfaces clean.
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This job included new drums. The shoes were retracted with the adjuster screw so that the drum would slide on easily.
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