CarCare
Print this Email this diggDigg this! del.icio.us
diy brake rotor replace

To get an idea of how the rotors and brake pads work on your vehicle, grab a paper plate and spin it on your finger. As it spins grab it with your other hand. It stops instantly. The spinning plate is your rotor and your fingers and thumb are the brake pads. If the plate was spinning an awful lot faster and you tried to grab it, your hand and the plate would get hot in the process from the friction created. The energy of the spinning paper plate is converted into heat by the process of the hand grab. Not that you could actually spin the plate that fast, but you get the idea.

Heavy Metal
You may, of course, be asking yourself what all this "Ask Dr. Science" stuff has to do with driving down the road and worn out brake rotors. The answer is—a lot. Every time you hit the brakes, all that energy you built up by mashing on the throttle is converted into friction and heat and—presto—you slow down and come to a stop. This process is repeated hundreds of times without much thought, be it on a run to the supermarket or a weekend road trip. Over time the friction and heat created by the brake pads clamping down on the rotors actually wear down the metal surface of the rotor, and problems arise.

Minimum Thickness
When the rotor gets too thin it loses its ability to channel heat away from the braking process and it overheats. The combination of too thin and too hot is a bad one for the brake rotor. Overheating brakes can cause a myriad of mayhem with your braking system. Pads get too hot and produce gases that cause brake fade. Rotors will warp and discolor as they overheat. Worst of all, brake fluid can boil and total loss of braking can occur. Warped rotors can be felt as a wobble or pulsation when you hit the brakes. This pulsation is not to be confused with the action of ABS brakes, and is usually felt on light application of the brake pedal.

Scoring and Warping
Imagine again the paper plate spinning around. In a perfect world the brake rotor is smooth and flat like the plate. When a rotor becomes warped it looks more like a potato chip than the plate. The measure of this flatness is called run-out, and a difference as small as .001 of an inch off center can be felt in the brake pedal. Beyond warping, rotors can become scored with deep scars if overheated. A rotor should have a relatively smooth surface for optimum braking. If you can feel deep scores in the rotor surface with your fingernail then it's probably time for rotor service or replacement. Do this test only when your brakes are cool.

Remove and Replace
The first thing to measure when considering replacement rotors is the rotor minimum thickness. The next is run-out. If the rotor is within specifications it may be resurfaced and then reinstalled on the vehicle. If any of the measurements are beyond specifications, the rotor is dangerous junk and must be replaced. Remember that skimping or cutting corners on brakes may be the worst and last decision you will ever make. When in doubt, the safest strategy is replacement. Another benefit of replacement is saving time. Removing the rotor and getting them checked and turned can chew up precious hours.

Continued on Page 2

Copyright autoMedia.com 2000-2009



 
Photo Guide
loosen wheel lug nuts
Loosen wheel lug nuts first. Jack up the car safely and remove the wheels. Work on one side. Refer to the other side for assembly.
remove brake caliper
Remove brake caliper as an assembly. Do not allow caliper to hang from the brake lines. Secure with wire if required.
brake fasteners removal
Don't forget to remove any fasteners or screws before attempting to separate the rotor from the hub.
brake rotor removal
Remove the old rotor. One-piece rotor and hub assemblies require removal of the spindle nut and the rotor hub assembly as a unit
new rotor install procedure
Reverse the removal procedure with the new rotor. Use brake cleaner to remove all grease or residue from the new rotor before installing the caliper. Tighten all fasteners to correct torque.



Related Articles
Bleeding Power Steering
Replacing Brake Pads
Power-Bleeding Brake Systems
Drum Brakes - Rear Brake Drum Adjustment
ABS Speed Sensor Service


autoMedia Car Blog
Don't Drink and Drive this Fourth of July Weekend
Forty years ago, my own mother was killed by a drunk driver. She was the first car off a green light when the other driver sped through a red light an ... more...

autoMedia CARnival July 3, 2009: What is happening this week in the auto blogs?
It's the week ending July 3, and we've browsed our favorite automotive blogs all week long to gather a collection of what we feel is the highlight fro ... more...

Editor’s Choice: Haute Haulers
I have an affinity for high-performance wagons, having learned to drive using my parents’ 1969 Ford Country Squire LTD station wagon, with a 7.0-liter ... more...


Forum Highlights
Re: how to change out oil pan in 7.3 liter powerstoke diesel Ford F-350 1 ton dully Do I need to pull engine tottally out? and how do I pull this engine I do not now where to start
these people are not really telling you a simple way to try it out first waht you can do is use a nice big jack and just try to creat enough room betw ... more...

Re: 84 Ford f150 Engine swap
hey is there anyway i could talk to you i got a 96f150 with the 4.9 and i want to put the 351 windsor in it for sure no question and i know it will bo ... more...

serpentine belt configuration 1997 buick park ave ultra supercharged
my tensioner melted belt snapped alt water pump powersteering all out,do not have belt pattern on hood,also looks like i have to remove motor mount to ... more...


Car Buying Guide

QUICK SEARCH:


Specs, prices, photos & more
SEARCH BY BODY STYLE:
FREE New Car Price Quote
Get the best price - it's easy!
Zip Code

Used Car Buying Guide



2000-2009 autoMedia.com Inc. All Rights Reserved.