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wheel bearing repacking

Every wheel on every vehicle spins around thanks to smaller wheel bearings. The bearings themselves contain rollers that spin around inside a cage to bear the load of the vehicle on the axles. The rollers are often tapered, or angled, against the cones in which they spin in order to handle the immense loads placed against the wheels when turning right or left. With proper care and lubrication, most wheel bearings should roll down the highway for over 100,000 miles with no complaints.

Bearing It All
When bearings do complain the noise is usually speed-specific—the noise varies according to the speed of the spinning wheel in which it is contained. Clicks, rumbles and groans that vary with vehicle speed may indicate a bearing that has lost its ability to handle the load. Another good way to check wheel bearings without disassembly is to jack the wheel in question up off the ground, grab it from both the top and the bottom, and attempt to move it. There should be very little or no movement at all.

Give Bearings a Brake
If your wheel bearings are A-OK, the best way to keep them that way is with regular lubrication. A sensible time to check and lubricate the wheel bearings is when brake service is performed, as removal of calipers and rotors will allow access to the wheel bearing. While some bearings are relatively easy to inspect and service, others are pressed onto axles, and even worse are the captured bearing type. Specialized tools and procedures make captured bearing service best left to the professional.

Too Much to Bear
Things to look for when inspecting wheel bearings are loose or broken tapered rollers, scored race or roller surfaces, or excessive play in the assembly. The shiny surface of a bearing is specially hardened and should be a uniform color. Hot spots, different color lines or scoring indicate wear through to the softer metal underneath. The worst-case scenario of bearing failure is excessive heat buildup. The friction created by the malfunctioning bearing can generate enough heat to shear an axle. A wheel bouncing down the road ahead of a vehicle is not a welcome sight.

Slippery Slope
The only difference between a bearing working for 100,000 miles or failing prematurely is quality high-temperature wheel-bearing grease. Since brakes convert vehicle inertia into heat as they slow the vehicle, the surrounding area can get extremely hot. Low temperature or chassis grease will liquefy and slip-up the brakes—not good. The other rule of grease is that grease types are not always compatible. Always re-lubricate with high-temperature wheel-bearing grease of the same type. To lube a bearing, use either a gob in the palm of your hand or a wheel bearing grease tool to pack the bearing. The key is to get grease inside all bearing surfaces.

Continued on Page 2

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Photo Guide
remove bearing grease cup from hub
With the wheel and brake caliper removed, use a screwdriver to gently pry the bearing grease cup away from the hub. Turning the wheel a little each time helps get the job done.
remove cotter pin, retaining ring, spindle nut
Remove the cotter pin, retaining ring, and spindle nut then remove hub or rotor-hub assembly.
inspect bearing
Inspect the bearing and race for scoring, flat spots, or broken rollers. If all is well then repack with grease and skip to Step 10. If not, move to Step 4.
remove outer race from bearing hub
Use a drift and hammer to knock the outer race from the hub. Flip over the hub and use the same procedure to knock out the inner race, bearing, and seal.
pack new inner and outer whell bearings with grease
Pack the new inner and outer wheel bearings by either pressing grease into each roller by hand or using a bearing packer and grease gun. The idea is to force the grease into all the surfaces of the bearing.
selecting right size drift wheel bearing tool
Selecting the right size drift is the key to the wheel-bearing tool. Use a drift that is slightly smaller than the race or seal to be seated into the hub.
remove old bearing grease from inside hub
Remove old grease from inside hub. Use the wheel-bearing tool to seat inner race into hub. Place the bearing in the race and use the tool again to seat the grease seal. Flip over the hub and repeat for the outer race.
pack wheel bearing with grease
Pack a good amount, but do not completely fill inside the hub with grease. Clean all excess grease from outside the hub.
place hub on spindle
Place the hub on the spindle. While spinning the hub, tighten the nut just enough to seat the whole assembly. Loosen the nut then re-tighten to specifications. As a general rule, use about half as much torque as it took to seat the assembly. Do not over-tighten!
pack grease into bearing and cup
Pack more grease into the bearing and bearing cup, replace retaining ring and secure with a new cotter pin. Gently replace the bearing grease cup being careful not to dent it as dents can cause interference. Remove all grease from the outer surface of the hub or rotor. Grab the top and bottom of the hub and check for play.


Related Articles
Wheel Repair and Straightening
Inexpensive Wheel Upgrade
New Wheel Attire
Aluminum Wheel Repair
Servicing Wheel Bearings


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