CarCare
remove oil drain plug
Continued from Page 1
Intervals
Consult your owner's manual for recommended oil-change intervals. Newer cars alert the driver when the oil needs to be changed, and the quick-lube industry has done an excellent job of promoting 3 months or 3,000 miles—whichever comes first—as a safe interval. For the do-it-yourselfer, an easy way to remember the 3,000-mile window is to change oil every time the odometer hits 3300, 6600 and 0000.

Parts
Auto parts stores are one-stop shopping for oil-change components. Oil is often cheaper by the case, plus consider buying multiple filters so you won't have to return to the parts store before your next oil change. You'll also need a filter wrench and a receptacle for the old oil. Other parts to consider are a magnetic drain plug or magnetic product that mounts to the oil filter. These will help trap the metal particles that result from normal engine wear and tear.

Procedure
First, run the engine to operating temperature. Then lift and secure the vehicle using a jack and jackstands or ramps, apply the emergency brake and block the rear wheels with chocks. Place the drain pan under the oil pan and slowly remove the drain plug, being careful not to contact the hot oil. The longer you can let the oil drain and drip, the better. Inspect the drain plug for flaws, then reinstall it, taking care to not over-tighten the plug and strip the pan's threads. Wipe up any old oil from the plug and its surroundings.


Move the drain pan under the oil filter. Using a wrench, break the filter loose then spin it off by hand. Wear gloves, particularly if the filter it still hot. Don't be afraid to get aggressive with a filter that won't budge—after all, it's going to go bye-bye. Puncture, pry and/or "persuade" the filter as necessary, being conscientious of the mounting stud and other neighboring parts.


Prepare the new filter by coating its gasket with fresh oil. If the filter mounts somewhat vertically, pour some new oil into it to make the next engine startup less dry. Wipe the filter-mounting stud and area with a non-shedding rag or paper towel and install the new filter by hand, tightening it per its instructions (usually about 3/4 of a turn after the gasket contacts the mounting area).

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Photo Guide
oil change parts and tools
Necessary parts often cost less than service at a quick-lube joint. You'll need a filter, a filter wrench, oil (usually 4-6 quarts) and a container to catch and store the old oil (not shown).
raise vehicle to change oil
Warm up the engine to churn up as much engine sludge as possible. Then raise and secure the vehicle on ramps or jackstands. Position and drain pan under the oil plug and loosen the plug. Be cautious of the hot oil?wear protection.
oil plug removal and inspect
Clean and inspect the plug. If its sealing surface is cracked or otherwise deteriorating, replace the plug. Magnetic plugs?which help trap metal particles?are available at some parts stores.
remove oil filter
Oil-filter wrenches come in different styles. The end-of-filter style (foreground) works with a ratchet while the more-common band-style wrench clamps down around the filter.
difficulty removing oil filter
If the filter absolutely refuses to break loose, puncture it at its lowest point and let the oil evacuate into the drain pan. Then use a screwdriver or other suitable tool to pry the filter loose.
coat oil filter gasket with oil
Coat the new filter's gasket with clean oil. This keeps the gasket from drying out and makes the filter easier to remove at the next oil change.
fill engine with oil
Fill the engine with the proper amount and viscosity of oil per the vehicle's owner's manual.
check oil level with dipstick
Check the oil plug and filter areas for leaks, use the dipstick to verify that the crankcase is full and then recycle the old oil and filter at an approved facility.



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