New Twist on Taillamp Replacement

Although most newer vehicles use push-in style bulbs for the tail, signal and running lamps, there are still a few equipped with the push/twist type metal socket bulbs, and innumerable older models sport the same setup.

Heat Stress
Anyone that's been doing the DIY thing for even a short length of time has probably run across a bulb that has experienced such high heat that the glass appears frosted, crystalized, and perhaps heat-checked. If you made the mistake of just grabbing the bulb and giving a routine twist to remove it, you probably got a rude awakening in the form of a nasty gash in your fingers. The reason this happens is because the glass is so stressed it becomes extremely brittle, requiring very little pressure to break. Also, the socket portion of the bulb is sometimes stuck, requiring more force to turn.


"Well, duh," you say, while wondering what other options are available for such a disagreeable situation. If a rag or gloves are used to assist in the bulb's removal, we may have the protection needed, but not the grip on the bulb. If latex or nitrile gloves are used, we'll probably have the grip, but maybe not the protection. What to do?


The solution is ridiculously simple and cheap. All it takes is a four-inch section of 3/4-inch I.D. (internal diameter) heater hose, and minimal practice. The hose provides an excellent grip-to-pressure ratio against the top of the lamp and, if the lamp breaks, your fingers won't be involved in the ensuing bulb barrage.

Unique Technique
When putting your own hands to the task, wear gloves of some kind, or use a slightly longer piece of hose—whatever makes you comfortable. It also doesn't hurt to use this technique on visually undamaged lamps, for obvious reasons (it's fast and efficient, and you never know if the lamp is damaged in less apparent ways). This technique also works on smaller bulbs, including "push-in" types—just use a hose with a smaller I.D.