|
|

For this Chevelle, we chose an aftermarket 18-circuit wiring kit. It comes complete with a pre-connected fuse panel, all necessary wires, connectors, grommets, pigtail plugs, a thorough instruction booklet, and modern relays, fuses and flashers.
|

Quality wire strippers and crimpers are critical to success. This wiring kit comes with an ample array of connectors.
|

On the stock Chevelle, GM used a flat ribbon cable for rear-of-car wiring. Remove it.
|

The most difficult part of rewiring a car is removing the dash switches and old wiring. Chevelle switch bezels use an odd, two-hole fastener that requires a small pair of needle-nose pliers. Save all stock parts!
|

This lovely bag of snakes is the original wiring harness. Save everything until you're finished rewiring, as you'll need miscellaneous clips and plugs.
|

All "sections" are identified with easy-to-read tags that correspond to descriptions in the instructions. And each wire is identified on the wire itself every few inches.
|

Removing the front seats helps accessibility?and your back. All wires that route to the trunk are bundled with nylon ties and taped to the floorboard. If you're a restoration purist, you could feed the new wires through the stock ribbon cable sheath.
|

Here's the new fuse panel in place under the dash. It looks like chaos with all the wires spilling out, but order is quickly restored as you route and terminate wires.
|

Wires should be bundled every few inches with nylon ties for a neat appearance.
|

When using crimp pliers, never over-crimp the connection.
|

We made a replacement harness for the one that connects the
neutral safety switch to the steering column (bottom) by cutting off the stock half-moon connector and butt-connecting wires to the steering column/ignition harness, which plugs into the main fuse panel harness.
|

This is how the engine, coil-resistor, instrument, and starter wires cross the firewall. Secure the wires with plastic or rubber-insulated clamps. Nylon ties every 3 to 4 inches make for a neat wiring harness.
|

The original ignition switch uses a large, multi-prong plug. We butt-connected it to the kit's wiring harness. You could also discard the stock plug and use individual insulated spade connectors.
|

This is the dash lighting harness, and it must be culled out of the stock dash-wiring harness. It may take a while, but it greatly eases final dash wiring.
|

Once everything is ready, hook the battery cables to a low-amp battery charger to test all circuits. With a low-amp power supply, if something is wrong, you won't melt the car. When all circuits test okay, connect the battery and start cruising!
|