Performance
Continued from Page 2

Before we started, we studied the kit to get a feel for the Section groupings and how we wanted the wires to be routed. Then we read the instructions carefully. This pre-planning avoided any major errors once we began stringing wires. With our Chevelle, we strung the replacement wires along the same routes the original ones traveled.

Basic Wiring Tips
> Tying One On: When routing wires, if plastic split loom isn't used, place nylon ties every 2 to 4 inches to make neat wire bundles. Not only does it look trick, this eliminates the possibility of wires rubbing through the insulation, causing a short.


> Support Group: Never rely on the wire's end connector to support the weight of the wire. Use an insulated metal or nylon clamp to support a wire to stop any vibration that could cause the connection to fail.


> Crimp Connections: Some wiring pros rely on soldered connections protected by a heat-shrink insulation. Good choice, but a labor-intensive one. Standard crimp connectors can work just as well as soldered connections and are less prone to breaking or loosening by vibration. The key to crimp connections is to use a proper crimp tool and to not over-crimp the wire.


> Hole Job: When running wires through a panel, such as a firewall or an inner fender panel, always use a rubber grommet to protect the wires. The knife-edge of a sheetmetal hole can, when propelled by vibration, easily slice through wire's insulation. Also, if a wire or battery cable comes anywhere near a frame rail or potentially sharp edge, cover it with a short length of heater hose or vacuum tubing.

Continued on Page 4

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Photo Guide

For this Chevelle, we chose an aftermarket 18-circuit wiring kit. It comes complete with a pre-connected fuse panel, all necessary wires, connectors, grommets, pigtail plugs, a thorough instruction booklet, and modern relays, fuses and flashers.

Quality wire strippers and crimpers are critical to success. This wiring kit comes with an ample array of connectors.

On the stock Chevelle, GM used a flat ribbon cable for rear-of-car wiring. Remove it.

The most difficult part of rewiring a car is removing the dash switches and old wiring. Chevelle switch bezels use an odd, two-hole fastener that requires a small pair of needle-nose pliers. Save all stock parts!

This lovely bag of snakes is the original wiring harness. Save everything until you're finished rewiring, as you'll need miscellaneous clips and plugs.

All "sections" are identified with easy-to-read tags that correspond to descriptions in the instructions. And each wire is identified on the wire itself every few inches.

Removing the front seats helps accessibility?and your back. All wires that route to the trunk are bundled with nylon ties and taped to the floorboard. If you're a restoration purist, you could feed the new wires through the stock ribbon cable sheath.

Here's the new fuse panel in place under the dash. It looks like chaos with all the wires spilling out, but order is quickly restored as you route and terminate wires.

Wires should be bundled every few inches with nylon ties for a neat appearance.

When using crimp pliers, never over-crimp the connection.

We made a replacement harness for the one that connects the neutral safety switch to the steering column (bottom) by cutting off the stock half-moon connector and butt-connecting wires to the steering column/ignition harness, which plugs into the main fuse panel harness.

This is how the engine, coil-resistor, instrument, and starter wires cross the firewall. Secure the wires with plastic or rubber-insulated clamps. Nylon ties every 3 to 4 inches make for a neat wiring harness.

The original ignition switch uses a large, multi-prong plug. We butt-connected it to the kit's wiring harness. You could also discard the stock plug and use individual insulated spade connectors.

This is the dash lighting harness, and it must be culled out of the stock dash-wiring harness. It may take a while, but it greatly eases final dash wiring.

Once everything is ready, hook the battery cables to a low-amp battery charger to test all circuits. With a low-amp power supply, if something is wrong, you won't melt the car. When all circuits test okay, connect the battery and start cruising!



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