Performance
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Muscle cars' popularity never wanes. But as the Sixties become more distant, the high-horsepower cars produced in that era continue to deteriorate. Hot rodders are forever updating and upgrading mechanical components, but they shouldn't overlook the electrical system. In fact, totally rewiring a muscle car with an aftermarket kit can improve both performance and safety: Old, brittle wires can crack or fray and produce sparks, which can ignite an electrical fire. Also, electrical components such as headlights perform best when the wires allow more voltage to flow to them.

Wiring Kits
Several automotive aftermarket companies offer complete wiring kits that are assembled with the shade-tree mechanic in mind. Specific kits for popular cars include the proper amount of circuits for all OE accessories, original-style connectors and plugs, and even cut-to-length wire. For those who want to add additional circuits and update their cars with features such as fuel injection, universal extra-circuit kits are available.

Rewiring a muscle car with an aftermarket kit can improve both performance and safety.
Armed with simple hand tools, a wire stripper/crimper and a spool-full of patience, the accompanying Steps show how anyone with average auto-repair ability can gut and replace a muscle car's wiring. A 1966 Chevelle serves as our model here.


For this job, we chose a basic 18-circuit aftermarket wiring kit. In addition to an OE-style fuse panel and wires, the kit came complete with headlight plugs, tie wraps, an ample supply of crimp connectors, and perhaps most important, an excellent instruction booklet. Individual wires are labeled every few inches over their entire length. Moreover, the instruction booklet clearly identifies, per color (using standard GM wiring color coding), per section, a wire's destination and origin. In addition, complete wiring diagrams are included, making it nearly impossible to lose your way.

Installation Overview
When we evaluated the wiring in this nicely street-machined 1966 Malibu, we found an electric Chernobyl in waiting. When the stoplights would go on, everything else would go dim. Repeated trailer wirings had tangled the trunk wiring harness. And wires and connectors had become as brittle as a Pringle. A total re-wire was in order.

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Photo Guide

For this Chevelle, we chose an aftermarket 18-circuit wiring kit. It comes complete with a pre-connected fuse panel, all necessary wires, connectors, grommets, pigtail plugs, a thorough instruction booklet, and modern relays, fuses and flashers.

Quality wire strippers and crimpers are critical to success. This wiring kit comes with an ample array of connectors.

On the stock Chevelle, GM used a flat ribbon cable for rear-of-car wiring. Remove it.

The most difficult part of rewiring a car is removing the dash switches and old wiring. Chevelle switch bezels use an odd, two-hole fastener that requires a small pair of needle-nose pliers. Save all stock parts!

This lovely bag of snakes is the original wiring harness. Save everything until you're finished rewiring, as you'll need miscellaneous clips and plugs.

All "sections" are identified with easy-to-read tags that correspond to descriptions in the instructions. And each wire is identified on the wire itself every few inches.

Removing the front seats helps accessibility?and your back. All wires that route to the trunk are bundled with nylon ties and taped to the floorboard. If you're a restoration purist, you could feed the new wires through the stock ribbon cable sheath.

Here's the new fuse panel in place under the dash. It looks like chaos with all the wires spilling out, but order is quickly restored as you route and terminate wires.

Wires should be bundled every few inches with nylon ties for a neat appearance.

When using crimp pliers, never over-crimp the connection.

We made a replacement harness for the one that connects the neutral safety switch to the steering column (bottom) by cutting off the stock half-moon connector and butt-connecting wires to the steering column/ignition harness, which plugs into the main fuse panel harness.

This is how the engine, coil-resistor, instrument, and starter wires cross the firewall. Secure the wires with plastic or rubber-insulated clamps. Nylon ties every 3 to 4 inches make for a neat wiring harness.

The original ignition switch uses a large, multi-prong plug. We butt-connected it to the kit's wiring harness. You could also discard the stock plug and use individual insulated spade connectors.

This is the dash lighting harness, and it must be culled out of the stock dash-wiring harness. It may take a while, but it greatly eases final dash wiring.

Once everything is ready, hook the battery cables to a low-amp battery charger to test all circuits. With a low-amp power supply, if something is wrong, you won't melt the car. When all circuits test okay, connect the battery and start cruising!


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