Motorcraft Carburetor Rebuild
Reviving Ford's 1957-69 two-barrel
The Motorcraft 2100-D two-barrel carburetor was ubiquitous on Ford small-block V-8s throughout the Sixties. Appearing as early as 1957 in Ford and Mercury cars (including Edsels), the 2100-D later handled aspirational duties for (among others) Fairlanes, Mustangs, Meteors, Galaxies, Comets, Cougars, station wagons, and pickups. This two-barrel even made its way onto 1968-69 AMC 290- and 343cid engines.
Of Jets & Floats
Carburetor rebuilding can be intimidating. The sheer number of parts alone have been known to make grown men flee to a carb rebuilder. But with a little patience and some attention to detail, the job can be completed by anyone who possesses average mechanical ability and common sense in approximately one afternoon.
The 2100-D handled aspirational duties for Fairlanes, Mustangs, Meteors, Galaxies, Comets, Cougars, station wagons, and pickups. The first order of business is to buy a rebuild kit for the Motorcraft 2100-D. These kits come with enough parts to cover many years' worth of variations in the carb, so rest assured that not all of the components will have to be implanted in your old unit. In addition to the kit's instructions, first-time rebuilders will want to refer to a service manual or even one of the specialized books devoted to this carburetor.
Overall, cleanliness and organization are the common denominators in a successful carb rebuild. Components should be cleaned thoroughly during the disassembly, then possibly set aside in the order they were taken off. Documenting the disassembly with a video camera or digital still camera can prove an invaluable reference when putting the carb back together.
The Steps shown here give an overview of the process (on a '66 Mustang) to help you decide if the job in within your skill level. The main motivator is that a rebuild kit is a lot less expensive than exchanging the carb for another or having a shop do the work. Your car or truck will thank you by no longer sputtering and stuttering.
Tools & Stuff
> Solvent: carburetor-dip chemical and/or aerosol cleaner, lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol
> Line (flared) wrenches
Remove the air cleaner, choke shield and breather hose. Then unscrew the air horn body.
Disconnect the lines to the choke (far left), the fuel line from the fuel filter (foreground) and the throttle linkage.
Remove the air horn and its gasket.
Free the carb by removing its retaining nuts and lock washers. Then cover the bores in the intake manifold with a rag or paper towel to keep out dirt and debris.
Disconnect the dashpot from the throttle lever.
Detach the accelerator pump rod from the over-travel lever.
Remove the accelerator pump's four cover screws to free the diaphragm and spring.
Reach in and remove the elastometer valve, which looks like a small finger cymbal. Make sure to extract the plastic tip if it breaks off. The rebuild kit contains a new valve.
Pry the float shaft retainer from the fuel inlet seat.
Remove the float, lever assembly and needle.
Remove the inlet needle seat, filter screen and pump-discharge screw. Also, the fuel filter can be removed whenever convenient since it should be replaced in conjunction with the rebuild.
Unscrew the main jets, then the accelerator-pump discharge nozzle and air distributor plate (the screw directly above the screwdriver).
Remove the booster venturi assembly, its gasket and the inlet fitting.
Turn the main body upside down to dislodge the accelerator pump discharge weight (left hand) and ball (right hand).
Turn the carb over and unscrew the idle fuel-mixture adjusting screws and springs. Remove the power-valve cover, then the power valve itself along with its gaskets.
Thoroughly clean the carb's main body with carb cleaner or dip, lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol. Power-valve ports can be scraped clean with a thin wire.
Being reassembly by reinstalling the idle-fuel screws and springs and new power valve and gaskets.
Reinstall the main jets and drop the accelerator-discharge ball and weight into their hole.
Install the booster venturi with a new gasket, lubricate the new elastomer valve's tip and insert the valve into the pump cavity with needle-nose pliers. Then install the spring and new diaphragm.
Install the accelerator pump rod on the over-traveler, then insert the new needle-and-seat assembly.
Slide the float shaft through the lever, and then install the float assembly into the fuel bowl by hooking the tab under the inlet-needle assembly.
Bend the float lever to the proper height for the application as specified in the rebuild kit's instructions.
Insert the new main body/air horn gasket. The rest of the job reverses the disassembly/removal procedure. Be sure to use a new fuel filter.
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