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The crank has a standard configuration, but the factory balancing was not good enough. After checking it out, VanGordon added nine grams of material to the counterweight at the front, and 20 grams was removed from the rear.
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Valve relief for the piston top is stock, but the SpeedPro pistons have Teflon-coated skirts to decrease the chance of "black death" (galling of piston). The connecting rods are original, but reconditioned, and upgraded with ARP bolts.
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VanGordon uses both a radial Moly (or a "round ring") and square edge. The radial is the upper one, and is more forgiving and designed to prevent detonation. Even though it allows a bit oil usage, it won't bind in the top ring land. The square-edge ring below it is for scraping off oil from the cylinder wall.
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Details make all the difference. Or in this case detailing does. VanGordon deburrs the corner of the thrust bearing in the center of the block to remove any "dingle berries or stalactites" as he calls them. Otherwise the thrust bearing might not seat properly, and cause wear.
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Note the difference between the thrust bearing and the standard one. The flanges on the thrust bearing have oil passages added to them, and the ends are beveled as well. The center bearing is the most important, because it handles stress from four different angles.
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VanGordon uses full-groove industrial bearings with channels on both the top and bottom, to ensure plenty of oil (in contrast to the smooth bearing shown at top).
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At the end caps, the neoprene rear main seal protrudes slightly. Don't cut off this extra piece. The excess crushes the seal together to prevent any gaps or leaks.
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Before installing the crankshaft, apply engine oil to all the bearing surfaces. VanGordon won't use white lithium grease, because he says it can clog the filter.
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Once the crankshaft is in place, tap the counterweights gently to seat it on the bearings.
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Use a Plastiguage to check the clearance. After placing a small thread of wax on the bearing surface, torque the cap to see how much it spreads under pressure. Then measure the crush width. Ideally it should be 2.5 to 3 thousandths.
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Add oil to the bolt heads before bolting on the connecting rods. This makes it easier to torque them and check the crush, which should be about .003 inches for a performance engine. Don't use an air wrench either. A manual speed wrench prevents binding on the cap, and lets you "sneak up" to the correct torque setting.
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Here's a simple but really essential step: Set the thrust bearing by tapping GENTLY on each end of the crankshaft.
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Check endplay with a pair of screwdrivers and dial indicator—006 inches is ideal. Also, spin the crankshaft by hand. It should spin smoothly and easily, with no drag.
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