CarCare
Continued from Page 2
Brake Fluid Level
Early cars mandate you remove the fluid cap (or caps) in order to inspect fluid level. Always clean the reservoir cap and the area around it prior to removing it. This helps to prevent dirt and debris from entering the brake fluid master cylinder reservoir. In some cases, you will have to remove one or two “bail wires” that affix the cap to the master cylinder. Typically, you simply pry the bail wires to one side with a screwdriver. Once the cap is removed, you will sometimes be faced with removing a large rubber seal (in most cases, it will remain in the cap). At this point, you can physically inspect the fluid level.


On later model vehicles, the reservoir is transparent. You can inspect fluid levels without removing the cap. Typically, the reservoir is marked “MINIMUM” and often with “MAXIMUM” as well. Fluid should not be over the maximum and obviously should not be below the minimum.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level can go down: The first is normal wear. As the brake pads (disc or drum) wear, fluid level in the hydraulic system goes down. If new linings are installed, then the fluid level will go back up. The other reason is a leak. If the system is leaking, stop! Do not drive the car any further. You should contact a mechanic as soon as possible to determine the cause.


Before adding fluid, check the owner’s manual to determine brake fluid specifications for your particularly vehicle. The use of incorrect fluid can damage the hydraulic system parts within the brake system. When adding fluid, pour it into the open reservoir slowly. The reasoning here is, you really don’t want air bubbles to enter the hydraulic system. Be very careful with fluid. If you spill fluid on the vehicle’s finish, paint damage can (and most often will) occur. Wash the fluid off with cold water immediately.

Battery Condition
Sealed, maintenance free batteries have been in use for a number of years. Obviously, they require no maintenance, and have no filler caps, and you never need to add water. Many of these batteries have some form of test indicator (in essence, a built-in hydrometer) located on the top. Most will show a “green” color if the battery is in good working condition. If the hydrometer or test indicator is black, then the battery is discharged. A discharged battery is an indication it needs replacement or there is a defect in the charging (alternator) system.

Continued on Page 4

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Photo Guide

Oil level checks are critical. Typically, the dipstick is marked or color coded as shown here.

Automatic transmission fluid should also be checked. In many late model vehicles, the dipstick has a lock on the handle that must be flipped before checking the oil level.

To check coolant levels on most vehicles, you simply examine the level in the surge tank (as shown here). There is no need to remove the radiator cap.

Brake fluid levels are also easy to check on most vehicles. The master cylinder fluid levels are typically made of a translucent plastic material, allowing easy inspection.

Most batteries in use today are of the zero maintenance variety. That means they need no service. Many (such as this) do not have removable caps; they’re factored sealed.

Air filters too are now of the high mileage variety. To inspect the element, you have to remove the filter housing cover.

Power steering reservoirs can either be mounted directly on the pump (as shown here) or remotely mounted. There is usually a dipstick under the cap.

Don’t forget the windshield washer fluid level. It’s checked by viewing the level through the transparent reservoir.

Belts and hoses should also be examined. There are two important radiator hoses (and upper and a lower) along with either one long serpentine belt (most common today) or a series of v-belts.



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