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The original front spring hangers are at the top. The difference in size allows for the relocation of the spring mounting point, dropping the vehicle four inches in the rear.
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The Bell Tech kit contains front hangers, rear shackles and all the hardware needed. It's a foolproof system that doesn't require butchering the vehicle.
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The ABS line has been disconnected and the tie rod end removed. After removing the nut, a sharp whack with a large hammer on the tie rod end connection will usually break it free from the spindle.
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The front sway bar connecting links are now disconnected from the lower control arm and the shock is removed from inside the coil spring. The shock drops out through a hole in the lower arm.
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Once the spring is compressed properly, and with a floor jack supporting the lower arm, the top nut on the spindle/ball joint can be loosened and removed. This allows the brake system to be lowered to the floor and the stock spring removed.
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Note the difference in the stock coil (left) and the new Bell Tech unit. The wire diameter is slightly larger to make up for the shorter travel. No ride, suspension integrity or handling is sacrificed for these two iches in front.
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Installing the new spring is the reverse of the removal. Be sure to use that spring compressor here as well. Once the spindle is secured at the top ball joint, the shock, connecting link and tie rod can be re-attached.
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The short red frame bumper at bottom is necessary for the 4-inch rear drop. The stock bumper is much too long and would interfere with the lowering.
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The original bumper is removed and the new shorty is installed. This is the easiest part of the rear modifications.
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With the rear axle supported by jack stands, the two U-bolts securing the axle to the leaf spring are removed. Do one side of the vehicle at a time. This allows the rear end to be lowered to facilitate spring removal.
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The leaf spring is now removed from the vehicle. Having a friend to assist will make the removal easier. The hanger and rear shackle now need attention.
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The front spring hangers are riveted to the frame rail. We are cutting the rivet heads off with a torch, but a cut off wheel or air hammer will also accomplish the job. The rivet shafts can then be punched out and the new mounting inserted to secure the new hanger.
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The new front bracket is "sanded" free of paint on the contact edges to provide a smooth, tight fit to the frame.
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Using a C-clamp to secure the leafs together, the center bolt is removed for modification. Be sure the clamp is tight to avoid leaf shifting. The old rear shackle can also be removed.
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The center bolt is modified using a cut-off wheel and vise. Nothing complicated here. Shortening the bolt is required to ensure the bolt does not inhibit spring travel.
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Approximately one-half inch is cut from the stock spring center bolt. It is then reinserted into the spring and secured with the original hardware.
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The kit includes shims that are inserted between the spring and the axle tube to restore the original rear differential pinion angle. This is crucial to prevent driveline vibration and early U-joint failure.
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The front hangers and rear shackles are installed, the original spring secured in place and the rear end buttoned up on each side. The result is two inches lower in the front and four inches lower in the rear. The difference is obvious.
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