Performance
Lowering Suspension

Lowering your GMC or Chevy CK1500 can be a simple project that you can do at home without exotic tools or a Swiss bank account. We followed along while the experts at Sport Trucks by Dean installed 2-inch shorter front coil springs and a rear shackle and hanger kit from Bell Tech to lower the rear of this Y2K model four inches. These parts are available mail order and, with a normal complement of hand tools, can be installed in a day or less.

A simple project you can do at home without exotic tools or a Swiss bank account.
The front modifications are as simple as replacing the stock front coils with 2-inch shorter coils from Bell Tech. The spring wire is slightly heavier than the factory to retain ride quality but drop the nose without losing suspension travel or support. Cutting the factory coils might seem like an inexpensive way to go, but since the spring is designed specifically for the weight application, all you've done is ruin your ride and suspension quality. Any modifications to the front end should be immediately followed with a professional alignment.


To accompany the 2-inch/4-inch lowering, we are installing a set of ASA wheels and Bridgestone 275x60R17 tires from The Tire Rack for the right look. This combination is the same diameter as the original P235x75R16 Goodyear Wranglers on stock wheels. By retaining the same overall height, the speedometer and rear gear ratio is not altered, which normally occurs when you install a smaller or larger diameter tire. The Tire Rack sells wheel and tire packages (they arrive mounted and balanced) by mail order, allowing you to select any combination you want.


We recommend using a spring compressor (available from most local tool rental yards) to retain the front coil spring before removal. Every technician has his own tricks for this process, but using a compressor is the safest way to go. Coil springs can be under severe compression and may fly out like a cannon ball, removing parts of you or a large piece of your garage. Always play it safe!


Prior to starting the job, you should familiarize yourself with the parts to be replaced as well as how the new parts should be installed. Completely read all instructions at this time, carefully referring to any illustrations or photos provided. Have the required tools handy and a friend to assist with the heavy work. The vehicle should be placed on secure floor jacks at each corner. A clean level work surface is a plus. Allow yourself a day to do the job. When finished, DO NOT drive the vehicle except to the alignment rack.

Continued on Page 2

Copyright autoMedia.com 2000-2009



 
Photo Guide
front spring hangers
The original front spring hangers are at the top. The difference in size allows for the relocation of the spring mounting point, dropping the vehicle four inches in the rear.
Bell Tech suspension kit
The Bell Tech kit contains front hangers, rear shackles and all the hardware needed. It's a foolproof system that doesn't require butchering the vehicle.
ABS disconnection for lowering suspension
The ABS line has been disconnected and the tie rod end removed. After removing the nut, a sharp whack with a large hammer on the tie rod end connection will usually break it free from the spindle.
front sway bar disconnect
The front sway bar connecting links are now disconnected from the lower control arm and the shock is removed from inside the coil spring. The shock drops out through a hole in the lower arm.
spindle ball joint removal
Once the spring is compressed properly, and with a floor jack supporting the lower arm, the top nut on the spindle/ball joint can be loosened and removed. This allows the brake system to be lowered to the floor and the stock spring removed.
stock coil and bell tech coil
Note the difference in the stock coil (left) and the new Bell Tech unit. The wire diameter is slightly larger to make up for the shorter travel. No ride, suspension integrity or handling is sacrificed for these two iches in front.
spring install compressor
Installing the new spring is the reverse of the removal. Be sure to use that spring compressor here as well. Once the spindle is secured at the top ball joint, the shock, connecting link and tie rod can be re-attached.
4 inch drop frame bumper
The short red frame bumper at bottom is necessary for the 4-inch rear drop. The stock bumper is much too long and would interfere with the lowering.
rear modification bumper removal
The original bumper is removed and the new shorty is installed. This is the easiest part of the rear modifications.
u joint bolt removal
With the rear axle supported by jack stands, the two U-bolts securing the axle to the leaf spring are removed. Do one side of the vehicle at a time. This allows the rear end to be lowered to facilitate spring removal.
leaf spring removal
The leaf spring is now removed from the vehicle. Having a friend to assist will make the removal easier. The hanger and rear shackle now need attention.
front spring hangers
The front spring hangers are riveted to the frame rail. We are cutting the rivet heads off with a torch, but a cut off wheel or air hammer will also accomplish the job. The rivet shafts can then be punched out and the new mounting inserted to secure the new hanger.
front bracket
The new front bracket is "sanded" free of paint on the contact edges to provide a smooth, tight fit to the frame.
leaf spring upgrade
Using a C-clamp to secure the leafs together, the center bolt is removed for modification. Be sure the clamp is tight to avoid leaf shifting. The old rear shackle can also be removed.
center bolt shorten
The center bolt is modified using a cut-off wheel and vise. Nothing complicated here. Shortening the bolt is required to ensure the bolt does not inhibit spring travel.
stock spring reduction
Approximately one-half inch is cut from the stock spring center bolt. It is then reinserted into the spring and secured with the original hardware.
suspension lowering
The kit includes shims that are inserted between the spring and the axle tube to restore the original rear differential pinion angle. This is crucial to prevent driveline vibration and early U-joint failure.
front hangers and rear shackles
The front hangers and rear shackles are installed, the original spring secured in place and the rear end buttoned up on each side. The result is two inches lower in the front and four inches lower in the rear. The difference is obvious.



Related Articles
Garage Upgrades
Placebo Performance
Intense Integra
Sport Compact Appearance Add-Ons
SUV Upgrades


autoMedia Car Blog
autoMedia CARnival 11-20-09: This week in Auto Blogs
It's the week ending November 20, and we've browsed our favorite automotive blogs all week long to gather the highlights from each.It was a bad week ... more...

LA Preview: 2011 Mazda2
Mazda will introduce its award-winning Mazda2 subcompact to North America at the LA Auto Show. It is offered in sedan, three-door hatchback, and five- ... more...

LA Preview: 2011 Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG
Los Angeles kicks off the North American new-car auto show circuit on December 2nd when the LA Convention Center opens its doors to the media, ahead o ... more...


Forum Highlights
Re: Aluminum wheels and a flat tire
I am sure you have your tire changed by now, but this is a common problem when using aluminum wheels.  Once you realize you have a problem, hitti ... more...

Re: Chevy 3.8L Engine cutout
 I would call it in intermediate job.  You will need some special tools to do it, but if you have some experience doing repairs, and not jus ... more...

Re: The correct Voltage/Amps for Horn??
I'm not sure I have ever seen an actual horn go bad.  When they do stop working, it is usually an electrical issue.  You want to make sure i ... more...


Car Buying Guide

QUICK SEARCH:


Specs, prices, photos & more
SEARCH BY BODY STYLE:
FREE New Car Price Quote
Get the best price - it's easy!
Zip Code

Used Car Buying Guide


2000-2009 autoMedia.com Inc. All Rights Reserved.