How to keep Drum Brakes cool

Another approach involves the lining material, which has come a long way since the 1950s. Many modern friction materials can be attached to old brake shoes. These are usually bonded and riveted on. New materials have several advantages, among them the ability to work well from cold to hot without extensive "warming up," as was required in the past.


Also, modern racing brake fluid is effective at much higher temperatures than in the past. If you choose a racing brake fluid, be sure to bleed it often and change it regularly as it loses its effectiveness rapidly. For street use, stick with high-performance street fluids that are more resistant to picking up moisture. For racing use, avoid silicone fluids, since they can cause spongy pedals.


Yet another performance trick is to use lightweight aluminum brake drums. The most common aluminum drums were called Al-Fins (named for the bonding process, not the manufacturer). Actually, only the outside of the drum was aluminum, with a cast-iron liner for the pads to rub against.


The Al-Fin process was one of the first effective methods of bonding the drum to the lining, so that they wouldn't pop apart when they got really hot. Al-Fins were popular in the 1950s on European sports and racing cars, and were even used on the fronts of some Buick sedans starting in 1958. The huge Buick drums were favorites of home-built racers and hot rodders alike, who loved the racy finned drums.


Due to the large number made from the 1950s to the 1970s, Buick drums are still in good supply in wrecking yards. They have been an enduring favorite of nostalgia rodders, resulting in a new kit that hides a small disc brake inside a replica Buick Al-Fin drum. These are not legal for vintage racing, but are a good idea for rods and street machines.