|
|

Start by carefully measuring the length and width of the original part.
|

Mark off the sheetmetal with the overall dimensions. This piece of stock is 14-gauge cold-rolled steel, available from most hardware stores.
|

Next, trim the piece with tip snips to the correct overall size.
|

Use a scribing tool to mark the centerline, since you'll be working outward from the middle.
|

This industrial-size press brake puts the correct angle on the flat piece of steel.
|

Draw additional reference lines to match the contours and edges.
|

Next, trim the piece by cutting along these reference lines.
|

The shrinker pinches the metal in small sections, creating a curve or bow.
|

It's important to compare the new piece with the old one (or where it fits on the car) as you go along.
|

Use a scribing tool to mark contour lines. If the original piece is not symmetrical, you may have to measure several points for accuracy.
|

The bead roller has an edge-turning die to add the correct contour, usually pressed into the inside surface.
|

Be sure to check your work against the original piece.
|

Once the new piece matches with the original, scribe and cut an end piece.
|

After the end piece is welded on, sand and polish the surface prior to chrome plating. Since it's a lightweight item, instead of welding on studs to fasten the trim, you can epoxy them on after chrome plating.
|