Restoration
Continued from Page 1
Know What You're Getting
Unless you really know cars, a basket case is the worst possible entry point. There are scores of parts, assemblies and fasteners that have the opportunity to get lost or damaged while apart. Even if they're all there, guess who is going to have to figure out where they all go? Likewise, there's no chance to assess the car's running condition before you buy.


Once you've found the right make and model, make sure it's not a rust bucket, or you're going to have to factor in the cost of bringing its body and frame back from the brink. This may entail weld-in patches, custom steelwork, new panels and maybe even a new frame.


Likewise, crash damage such as a bent unibody, or heaps of plastic filler in the panels can be easily hidden, only to cause grief once you get into the project. The surest way to protect yourself is to buy an original car with a known history. As the years roll by, this should only increase its value.


Special-interest cars tend to attract modifications. Consider how well the car you're eyeing lines up with your end vision. If what you like is stock, all the modifications the previous owner made—such as trick 17-inch wheels and tires on a Chevelle—are of no value to you. In fact, the seller will want a higher price for the car because of them. And you'll still have to source originals later.

Heed the Calculator
Restoring cars is expensive. The cost of specialty services such as plating and painting, engine building, and OE-quality replacement components can add up faster than the national deficit. The standard rule that you should restore a car for your own pleasure—and not for profit—is still best.

Continued on Page 3

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