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Disconnect the negative battery post before beginning. This is extremely important. Misdirected amps and volts can cook gauges, burn out the 02 sensor, and fry the ECU.
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Use a vinyl and plastic paint if color matching a gauge pod or dash mount. Regular spray paint won't hold up to the task.
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Everything for the job: an Autometer 2224 kit includes a 3-wire 02 sensor to replace factory 1-wire units. With one wire for power, one for signasl, and one for ground, the improved sensor reaches operating temperature quickly. A good wiring kit is also essential.
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To match factory lighting, a colored cover on an incandescent bulb is one option. Measure the required wire lengths from the gauge mounting location before starting to splice into the factory wiring.
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Another lighting option is to use available in different color LED lights.
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Out comes the old 1-wire 02 sensor. Note the shielded wire to the connector. This shield prevents unwanted electronic signals from contaminating the feed to the ECU.
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In goes the new 3-wire 02 sensor. A 12V source heats up the sensor quickly to get the ECU out of open-loop mode quicker than a 1-wire unit, which relies on exhaust heat to produce a signal.
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Find a switched 12V source for the power wire of the 02 sensor. Take the ground to an engine ground source. Do not use a chassis ground for the 02 sensor.
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Before drilling crazy holes in the firewall, check factory routing and look for removable rubber grommets.
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This grommet has provisions for more wires. A clip of the rubber nipple with a set of dikes and the additional factory firewall line routing is ready to go.
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To get wires into the cabin from the engine compartment, tape the ends to a length of stiff wire. A fat roll of bailing wire should be right next to the greasy, 4-lb. sledgehammer in your toolbox.
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With a little finesse and maybe some bending, the wires will be where you need them. Take off the tape and fish the bailing wire back out the way it got in. Presto!
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Use the provided "T" fitting to tap into a boost-vacuum source.
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Run the boost-vacuum line to the MAP sensor unit if using an electronic gauge, or to the gauge itself if opting for a manual boost gauge.
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Wire up the air-fuel gauge according to the instructions. An air-fuel gauge will fry in seconds if it gets too much juice, and will not read accurately if wired incorrectly.
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Tap into a cabin light source, such as the ashtray light, for gauge lighting. The gauge lights should turn on with the cabin lights.
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Tap into a switched 12V source for gauge power. An Add-a-Circuit makes this job a snap. Look in the owner's manual and choose an ignition switched circuit. Run the ground to the chassis.
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Double-check all connections, splices, fittings and so on before hooking the battery back up and testing the gauges.
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