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Hot Rod Secrets
Insider tips from a pro builder
Steve Temple / autoMedia.com
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Anybody who's handled a hot rod project knows it's no walk on the drag strip. Often it starts out with high hopes and big dreams that come crashing to the pavement as the costs of restoring and modifying old, original sheetmetal rapidly spiral upward. Or even if your rod project uses late-model components, things just don't go together as quickly or simply as expected. And so it sits, gathering dust in the garage, awaiting an infusion of time, money and, perhaps most important, skill.
Keeping the Dream Alive
Whatever the scenario, there are ways to avoid these problems. Drawing on the hard-earned experience of a pro builder, we spent some time with Darryl Nance of D&P Chevy. This company is known for its impressive quality of classic "Tri-Five" Chevys, but it also builds and restores a number of street rods and musclecars. The following tech tips can be applied to a wide range of projects, whatever you have in mind.
Focal Point
Since so much of a project car is visual and spatial, it's simpler to dig into this subject with lots of photos and descriptive captions in order to illustrate most of these hands-on tips from the Nance family and his skilled crew. Obviously, entire books have been written on this subject, but we've focused here on the more typical problems encountered, and how to avoid them on your next project.
Solid Foundation
For instance, with an older, more obscure chassis, D&P wisely convinced the owner of the car to scrap the old framework and underpinnings in favor of a modern chassis with stronger boxed frame rails and adjustable coil-overs. With a stiffer frame, the suspension geometry will hold a custom car on course, with no risk of seasickness from excessive body sway. Just as with restoring an old house, you need to start with a strong foundation. Follow along for some professional secrets for restoring your favorite hot street rod.
Resource
D&P Classic Chevy, 8331 Enterprise Lane, Huntington Beach, CA 92648, 714/375-0889, www.dpchevy.com
Copyright autoMedia.com 2000-2009
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Old cars may look cool, but beauty is often only skin deep. Check out the chassis on this '57 Olds convertible. That frame and suspension setup looks positively primeval, with two pairs of shocks in the rear, and leaf springs as well to handle all that weight.
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For reasons of cost, most factory control arms are made of stamped steel. Tubular control arms, like these from Heidt's, are lighter and stronger. They also are adjustable in camber and caster for improved handling and tracking. Less weight on control arms also means reduced unsprung weight.
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Keeping your accessory components as far apart as possible really simplifies maintenance chores. Unfortunately, older rods usually don't have all that much width in the engine bay but, wherever possible, give those accessories lots of room to breathe.
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If you've got to have a hot mill, then you'll need a way to keep it running cool. Here's a few ways to get the most of out of your heat exchanger. Use as efficient a core as possible (four to five rows for copper, 1.5-inch tubes max for aluminum, and baffled tanks). Install dual electric fans with a shroud on the engine side.
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The owner of this basket-case pickup truck couldn't be deterred from restoring it. The only point in its favor is that classic trucks are often less expensive at the outset than a more popular car body. But that's only a small part of the overall expense. Rusty panels like these require many hours of repair and reshaping to become usable, and a good metalworker runs nearly $70 per hour or more. Plan on cost overruns when working with original tin.
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Often D&P ends up fixing somebody else's idea of a resto job. On this '48 Sedan Delivery, it turned out that the rocker panels were rotted, both inside and out. "I have to use media blasting to check out the condition of the sheetmetal," Nance says. "Especially on any cars from east of the Rockies." He also recommends hiring a vehicle inspector/appraiser before purchasing any project car, particularly if you can't see it firsthand.
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Even if the sheetmetal has been repaired, that doesn't mean it has the latest in welding technology. Originally, brazing with brass filler was the norm, but that method just doesn't hold together as well as TIG and MIG welding, which actually penetrate the metal and create a stronger bond. So if the weld seam has brass in it (look for gold-colored metal), better to redo it before prepping and painting, to prevent the part from busting loose.
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Another common technique for panel repair was to use rivets, but the filler surrounding them tends to absorb moisture and create an uneven surface. Replace those rivets with a fresh, clean weld.
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Swapping out those old leaf springs or coil and shock setups for a modern coil-over really makes a difference in the ride. Not only does it let you adjust the ride height for either a lowered show stance or more road clearance, the handling is usually better as well, especially on drag strip runs. However, if you're just cruisin' in your rod, coil-overs can feel a bit stiff, so air bags might be a better way to go.
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If the main rails of the frame are still good, consider adding just a front clip or stub frame instead. The advantages of this approach include not only saving money, but also makes it easier to change the engine mounts for a different type of powerplant. In this case, a '57 Chevy pickup is now outfitted with a LS-1. The stub frame also makes it easier to modernize the suspension with late-model components.
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Most older cars used for street rod projects have questionable wiring at best. Not only is the voltage often too low (six instead of 12 volts), there usually isn't a fuse panel. Nance also says that in order to prevent short circuits, don't take any shortcuts. For a new harness, he uses American Auto Wire's aftermarket wiring kits.
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There are a few things to keep in mind before sending off those old bumpers for re-plating. First you'll need to figure out which pieces are worth saving, by a careful inspection, both inside and out. In addition to any dents or dings, look for corrosion and poor welds. Minor pitting on the surface is not usually a problem, but if rust is starting to eat away at the metal, the part may need to be replaced.
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With a hotter mill under the hood, you need some insulation against heat and sound. Not only will foil-backed foam keep things cozier in the cockpit, it can also cut down on road noise and give your rod that vault-like quality and quietness.
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While street rodding is all about personal expression and doing things your way, Nance tempers that with the following advice: "If you choose a rare, low-production design, one that doesn't have many resto or aftermarket replacement parts, be prepared for a lot more challenges." (That's a polite way of saying that if you dare to be different, you can expect some extra headaches and expenses.)
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Re: Chevy 3.8L Engine cutout I would call it in intermediate job. You will need some special tools to do it, but if you have some experience doing repairs, and not jus ... more... |
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