Restoration

It's pretty common for those of us building project cars to wind up rebuilding a used engine as well. And many of the engines come with a Holly four-barrel carburetor, so it pays to know how to work on one. A new unit starts around $290, but most carburetors last forever and with a rebuild kit (about $35) and an hour or two on the workbench, you will have a unit that perhaps runs even better than new.


Bolting on a rebuilt carburetor is a great feeling. The motor immediately sounds healthier, throttle response becomes crisper and, of course, power and fuel economy improve. However, just like other mechanical parts, a carburetor needs periodic rebuilding to keep it metering efficiently.


Holley "Trick Kits" and "Renew" kits are the easiest way to revive your carb. They come with everything you'll need, including gaskets, power valves and other hard and soft parts. Be sure to get the specific kit for your carb. All Holley carbs come with the part number stamped on the choke tower, so refer to this number so you get the right kit.

Disassembly
Since there are many small parts in this unit, we used a plastic tray and several small cans to keep track of everything. As you can see from the photos, this 25-year-old unit looks like it has been well used. It still ran, but as part of the total engine rebuild, we are putting everything in like-new condition.


After you remove the carb from the engine, start by draining all the fuel from it. Remove just one of the lower bowl screws and let the fuel drain out. A plastic spray can top works great to catch the fuel. It's also important to check the flatness of the carburetor base. If there was a thick gasket or heat spacer between the carb and the intake manifold, there is a good chance that the carb base may be slightly warped. To correct this, tape a sheet of 320-grit sandpaper to a flat pane of glass that's taped to a bench and then hand-sand the bottom of the carb before reassembling.

Continued on Page 2

Copyright autoMedia.com 2000-2009



 
Photo Guide

Start by tagging all the hoses before removing the unit from the engine.

This unit has an automatic (electric) choke, so the first thing we did was remove the small pin from the choke rod using needle-nose pliers.

Remove the automatic choke housing as well.

Disassemble the shaft and remove the cylinder from the housing.

When disassembling the electric choke, note that the spring end goes over the arm.

When disassembling and reassembling the float bowls, note that the primary and secondary springs are different and are not interchangeable.

Save all the old gaskets so you can match them to the correct new ones. The carb kit will have several to choose from.

Remove the base from the main body. Note that the two screw holes in the center are left empty.

Remove the primary metering body from the carburetor.

Remove the power valve in the primary metering body.

The idle mixture screw will have a small cork "donut" or washer on it. Next remove the main jet from the primary metering body.

Here is the complete carburetor ready for assembly after coming out of the carb cleaner. It goes back together the same way it came apart.

Check the bottom of the carb to ensure that the surface is flat, and resurface if necessary.

Here's the finished unit ready to be put back on the car.

Two gaskets and an aluminum plate for heat insulation allow the carburetor to be tightened down without distorting the base.



Related Articles
Leaf Spring Resto
Positraction Install
Carburetor Classics: The Notorious Stromberg 97
Exhaust System Insulation
How to keep Drum Brakes cool


autoMedia Car Blog
autoMedia CARnival 11-20-09: This week in Auto Blogs
It's the week ending November 20, and we've browsed our favorite automotive blogs all week long to gather the highlights from each.It was a bad week ... more...

LA Preview: 2011 Mazda2
Mazda will introduce its award-winning Mazda2 subcompact to North America at the LA Auto Show. It is offered in sedan, three-door hatchback, and five- ... more...

LA Preview: 2011 Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG
Los Angeles kicks off the North American new-car auto show circuit on December 2nd when the LA Convention Center opens its doors to the media, ahead o ... more...


Forum Highlights
Re: Aluminum wheels and a flat tire
I am sure you have your tire changed by now, but this is a common problem when using aluminum wheels.  Once you realize you have a problem, hitti ... more...

Re: Chevy 3.8L Engine cutout
 I would call it in intermediate job.  You will need some special tools to do it, but if you have some experience doing repairs, and not jus ... more...

Re: The correct Voltage/Amps for Horn??
I'm not sure I have ever seen an actual horn go bad.  When they do stop working, it is usually an electrical issue.  You want to make sure i ... more...


Car Buying Guide

QUICK SEARCH:


Specs, prices, photos & more
SEARCH BY BODY STYLE:
FREE New Car Price Quote
Get the best price - it's easy!
Zip Code

Used Car Buying Guide


2000-2009 autoMedia.com Inc. All Rights Reserved.