Headlight Replacement
Changing broken or burned-out lamps
Oddly enough, many of us will drive with a non-illuminating headlight for weeks—until someone alerts us. (With any luck, it won't be a person wearing a badge.) There's no reason for this: most headlights are relatively simple to replace.
Light Types
Most headlights are relatively simple to replace. We're limiting this article to "conventional" sealed-beam headlights. In this configuration, the lamp and bulb are replaced as a single unit (as opposed to "composite" systems that have removable, gas-filled bulbs). Typically, separate lamps are used for both the low and high beams. What many people might not know is that different styles of replacement lamps are available. Your local parts store might carry some or all of these:
> Basic replacement: usually the same specifications as original equipment (OE), about 35-watt low beams and 55-watt high beams.
> Whiter/bluer lamps: project whiter (less amber) light than OE and are marketed more as street-legal aesthetic upgrades as opposed to visibility improvements (although wattage output can range as high as 60 for low beams and 65 for brights).
> Improved vision: advertise 20%-30% better visibility than standard replacement lights but can also cost two to three times more.

Required items: a replacement, sealed-beam lamp and the appropriate screwdriver(s)?usually a Phillips-head (right), sometimes a Torx (left).

For easier access, remove the headlight trim piece if so equipped. This plastic trim ring is attached with a T-15 Torx screw at each corner.

Unscrew the headlight bezel. This lamp is secured with four Phillips-head screws (two on top and two below).

With the bezel removed, the lamp can easily be removed and unplugged from its wiring connector.

Plug in the new lamp and reverse the disassembly steps. Always check headlight aim when replacing a lamp.
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