Five Pro Restoration Tips

Quick hints for a better restoration

Jim McGowan / autoMedia.com

For every problem there is a solution! Some are right and some are wrong, and the wrong ones usually cause havoc. Here are five simple hints on how to save time, money or, in some cases, your original parts. There is a method to restoration madness; hopefully these will keep you off Prozac and assist in accomplishing your resto goals.

Bottle Opener

Removing coupe or hardtop roof-rail chrome trim is a risky task unless you know the pros' secrets. Prying off this thin trim usually puts difficult-to-repair bends or kinks into the entire length of the piece. Those of you old enough to remember non-twist-off bottle caps or flip-top cans are familiar with "church key" old-fashioned bottle openers. If you wrap the key's round (bottle-opener) side with masking tape, you can use the tab to catch the bottom of the trim and gently pry it out; the tape acts as a cushion. Going the length of the trim in six-inch increments will remove the strip without damage, and it can be reinstalled after the vehicle is painted.

Door Handles

In order to remove the door handle, you must first remove the door panel and paper insulator. This allows access to the inner door skin and is the only way to remove the door handle. On older GM cars, the handle is secured with two 3/8-inch bolts (one at the front and one at the rear, just before the push-button area) that go through the outer skin and screw into the handle. Rubber gaskets are used between the handle and door paint. Both the handles and gaskets are available from most GM restoration suppliers. While the space to remove the small bolts is tight, using two hands to locate and turn the box-end wrench will make the job a lot easier.

Steel Wool

Most people consider steel wool something you use to clean pots and pans, but different grades of steel wool are made for different uses. Very-fine-grade 0000 steel wool can be used on chrome, glass, stainless steel and other delicate materials because it won't scratch the surface. Combined with chrome polish and handwork, it will brighten stainless to a high luster. Use it to remove overspray from glass, polish chrome trim like molding or wheel rings and clean larger items like grilles or rocker-panel trim. Very-fine steel wool is available in most hardware or do-it-yourself stores as well as paint-supply outlets. Plus, it also works well in the kitchen.

Seat Trim

Many late-Sixties GM cars had hard-plastic seat backs that were trimmed with a flexible, simulated-chrome plastic strip. Over the years, this trim discolors to yellow and usually suffers from multiple contusions and abrasions. Many aftermarket restoration parts suppliers sell a self-adhering replacement in various cut-to-fit lengths. The glue is already applied inside the trim for secure attachment to the edge of the seat back. This trim is best applied in a warm temperature to facilitate the bends required for installation. In cold weather, warming the trim with a hair dryer will help the process. It's an inexpensive fix for a pesky problem.

Trunk Lock

Removing the GM A-body trunk lock can be a baffling adventure if you're not familiar with its internal structures. Unlike the door-lock assembly, the trunk lock is not visible and is harder to figure out. A retaining screw holds the bracket that secures the lock case in place. After removing the screw, grab the flat surface of the bracket that is exposed and pull down. This will disengage the bracket from the lock case and allow you to remove the lock from the deck lid. After the lock cylinder is removed, carefully pull out the bracket, taking care not to bend or deform it. Installation is simply the reverse of the procedure.

These are relatively simple tricks that will eliminate some frustrating moments in your restoration process, particularly in lock removal. In conjunction with these tips, you should also consult an original or reproduction factory assembly manual for your vehicle. This will supply answers to many of your questions.