Restoration
Print this Email this diggDigg this! del.icio.us

In Engine Rebuilding: The Preparation, we discussed various ways to rebuild your engine and how to find a competent machine shop to help you in the process. Part 2 will deal with the first step in putting it all back together—installing the crankshaft in the cylinder block.

Getting Ready
When you get your engine parts back from the machine shop everything should be ready for a final cleaning and assembly. Make sure that you have everything you need before you start the process. That will include the cylinder block, crankshaft, main bearings, rear main seal, torque wrench and Plastigauge. If you are fully equipped with inside and outside micrometers, you can skip the Plastigauge.


The first step is to thoroughly wash the engine block with detergent and water for the last time and blow it dry with compressed air. If you don't have compressed air it can air dry but make certain that you turn it over several times to get the water out of bolt holes, then coat all machined surfaces with a light coat of oil to prevent rust. Give the crankshaft a good scrubbing with detergent and a soft brush and a blow-dry as well. Coat the bearing surfaces with a light coat of oil.

Getting Your Bearings
If your engine is typically on its first rebuild, the engine machine shop probably ground the crankshaft .010-inch undersize to make the bearing journals round and provide a fresh bearing surface. That means that you will need to use .010 oversize (thicker) bearings to restore the correct bearing clearances. Crankshafts are ground up to .030 undersize in increments of .010. Make sure you have the correct size bearings for your crankshaft. If they have been installed in the engine, they are not returnable.


The rear main bearing seal is usually included in the gasket rebuild kit. Sometimes it is not included. Also, several vintage engines use a rope-type rear seal that is prone to leaking. A modern neoprene lip seal is usually available from aftermarket sources that specialize in your marque. So check the car club web sites and forums for availability.

Continued on Page 2

Copyright autoMedia.com 2000-2008

 
Related Photos More Photos...

The Eastwood...

The reflecti...

Coil-spring ...
hot rod resto engine check
The first st...

When disasse...

After removi...


Related Articles
Carburetor Classics: The Notorious Stromberg 97
Corvette Restoration: The Engine
Engine Rebuilding: The Camshaft
Engine Rebuilding: Cylinder Heads
Engine Rebuilding: Rods & Pistons


autoMedia Car Blog
Ouch! Small Pickup Truck Crash Tests - Painful Results
As gas prices soared past $4/gallon nationwide, and full-sized pickup trunk sales plummeted by double-digit percentages, some corners of the auto indu ... more...

Official: 2010 Lotus Evora 2+2
Lotus’ first all-new model in 13 years was unveiled at the British International Motor Show this week, the Evora. (We’re partial to the “Project Eagle ... more...

Car Sales Reaching the Lowest Levels Since 1993
It can’t be ignored that on the same day J.D. Power and Associates spreads doom about light-vehicle sales being expected to drop to the lowest levels ... more...


Forum Highlights
Need help putting brakes on 1961 Ford Ranchero
 I can't remember how my passenger side rear emergency brake attaches to the rear shoe. I know it attaches to the top with a pin and a horsesho ... more...

Re: engine smoke
he is right. Piston ring migth have not been the same. are they genuine parts? or its timing belt was'nt did right.   ______________________ ... more...

Re: 2000 Ranger front brake pads and rotors
don't worry about the sound. Tha's a good sound, it means the pads are working well, soon it will be gone. New pads ussually does that. Because its st ... more...


Car Buying Guide

QUICK SEARCH:


Specs, prices, photos & more
SEARCH BY BODY STYLE:
FREE New Car Price Quote
Get the best price - it's easy!

Used Car Buying Guide


2000-2008 autoMedia.com Inc. All Rights Reserved.