Engine Compartment Detailing

Many times during an engine rebuild the attention is only on the motor and not on where it lives. While the powerplant is on the engine stand, you have a golden opportunity to renovate areas you normally don't have access to. Once that chunk of metal is reinstalled, the detailing process is much harder. Here are a few tips on areas to address and how to breathe new life into old parts that make up your GM engine bay.

Booster
First, you must remove everything that can be unbolted in order to completely clean the compartment. Four 9/16-inch nuts secure this power brake booster to the firewall and a clevis pin on the actuation shaft under the dash must also be disconnected. With this large part removed you can detail, sand and paint the parts and areas around it. Installing a freshly plated booster is a must for a show-quality resto. Most restoration brake suppliers have these boosters and the correct master for your application. Be careful not to drip brake fluid from the master cylinder onto your painted parts—it works better than paint stripper.

A-Arm/Removal
Here is the passenger side A-arm and crossmember after the engine was removed. The old rotted A-arm cover was also removed and new replacements are available. This compartment went through several cleanups with the engine in place, but never when everything could be easily accessed. Use a liquid cleaner that cuts grease and a green scotch pad to remove the dirt and then wash the area with water. If you need to sand out deep dings in the paint, be sure to use 100-grit paper followed by 400-grit paper, then apply primer to the bare spots.

A-Arm/Resto
Here is the restored A-arm on the passenger side. What a difference a little handwork can make. The shock washer and nuts, alignment shims, large nuts securing the A-arm and the bushing washers and nuts were removed and wire-wheeled. After a thorough cleaning, a coat of aerosol clear enamel was applied. This will make hose-off cleaning in the future much easier and prevent rust. A green scotch pad was also used on the crossmember and then the areas were painted semi-gloss black like the original.

A-Arm/Install
The A-arm covers were attached at the factory with staples installed with a large gun. Aftermarket resto suppliers have the covers and staples, but now you have to install them by hand. One person can do the job, but a helper makes it much quicker and a lot easier. Careful measuring and ample patience will pull it off. Use a small drill bit to drill the holes in the cover and then install the staples one at a time, starting in the middle top and working out and down on each side. Your helper can bend the staples under the wheel well.