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Back the brakes all the way down to the backing plate. Remove the rear differential cover to drain the gear oil and access c-clips. Remove the c-clip cross shaft retaining bolt. You love the smell of gear oil!
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Push in the axle slightly, and turn the carrier over by hand to remove the c-clips. A magnet makes it easy. Remove the axles being careful not to damage the seals. Remove the backing plates.
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Install the caliper mounting plate. Orient the plate depending on the ultimate position of the calipers. Cinch it down to the flange.
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Insert the bolts and spacers through the mounting plate. Mount and fasten the caliper-mounting bracket to the mounting plate.
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Torque all fasteners to the recommended values!
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Load up the calipers on the bench. Tabs may need to be bent slightly for a proper fit.
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Slide the axle back in slowly and push it in to allow reinstallation of the c-clips, cross shaft, and retaining bolt.
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Replace the c-clips. Line up the cross-shaft retaining bolt before pushing it into place. Fasten the retaining bolt.
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Throw on the disc, and fit the caliper to line up the holes for the mounting bolts.
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Thread the mounting bolts through and cinch down the loaded caliper assembly.
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The stock brake hard line was shortened up for a better install of the braided stainless steel flexible line.
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Always use new copper washers when installing or replacing brake lines. The washers are designed to seal only once
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Fasten up the flexible line to the hard line. Use line wrenches to prevent round bolts and excessive swearing.
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An adjustable proportioning valve is an indispensable item when it comes to getting the front-to-rear braking ratio dialed in.
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Double check all brake line fittings and mounting fasteners before adding brake fluid. Bleed the system and check everything again. Enjoy newfound braking power.
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