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As anyone who has gotten into a fender bender knows, there's nothing inexpensive or quick about well done automotive paint and bodywork. Professional paint and bodywork is something best left to professionals. The materials and equipment required to reproduce a factory finish are beyond the scope and the budget of most do-it-yourselfers. That said, a $3,000 repair bill for a car that's worth $500 doesn't add up. Sometimes pulling or hammering out a dent and painting the word "ouch" on the fender are all that's required to restore function and utility.

Free Beats Good
The following tips may be helpful if you have a car the still runs and drives fine, but is not worth the cost of professional body repairs. This procedure is also helpful for a vehicle that perhaps came with dents when purchased. If a small scratch on the mirror finish of your paint results in sleepless nights then this is not the procedure for you. In this case, the car in question came complete with a dented fender and resulting annoying tire rub upon deep left turns or bumps. Something had to be done. As "cheap" was on top of the list when it came to budget, a $50 limit on tools was imposed. Thank goodness for the global economy.

Nothing to Lose
The best part about this procedure is that even if it doesn't turn out perfect, little will have been lost—except time. If everything turns out okay, your prized $500 runabout will once again be underway, and you will have saved a pile of money. Don't overestimate your power of reverse dent pounding. Deep creases in stamped steel fenders cannot be fixed. Even if things don't turn out perfect, valuable lessons can be learned. The absolute worst thing that can happen is you will have to replace and paint the bent fender. The best thing that can happen is that it will turn out good enough. Either way a valuable appreciation of professional bodywork will be gained.


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Here are the suggested tools. Most of this stuff can be had on the cheap these days. You may have a favorite hammer. Feel free to use it.

Jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel. Remove all plastic splash shields. Save any soil deposits for the garden. There's 20 good years of mulch in that fender.

Behold the suction cup. Find a flat surface, attach, and pull. Start as the outside of the dent and work your way in. If you're lucky the suction cup will be your first and last step.

The suction cups can also be used in conjunction with the leather bags full of buckshot. Tap from the inside. Pull from the outside. Presto.

We were not lucky. Fender removal starts by removing plastic trim and headlight buckets to access fender bolts. Be patient. Look for clips and fasteners. Don't force anything. It will break. Pesky fender bolts are often hidden.

There is always one bolt holding up the works. Don't try to force the fender off. Stop. Look for more bolts. Remove them all.

With all fasteners free the fender should pull away from the car with little effort.

Vice grip pliers are your friend. Straighten any bent fender supports with your favorite pair of pliers.

Practice makes semi-ok. This is a good place to practice using the hammers and dollies. Hold the dolly behind what's getting hammered. Small short taps are better than long heavy ones.

The same theory applies to the fender. Use the dolly or bag in conjunction with the hammer and tap out the dents from the backside.

Put everything back together. Certainly not a perfect job, but no more tire scraping either. Finishing it up with more hammering, sanding, more hammering, body filler, sanding, more filler, sanding—and paint optional.



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