Restoration

Hot rods, racecars and customized vehicles frequently require extended hose runs to hook the cooling system components together. Often the engine is set farther back, well away from the radiator, or in some cases there are a number of radiators plumbed together in series or tandem. Whatever type of cooling system, some custom fabrication is usually needed.

Connections
Rubber hoses should not be used in long runs, so metal tubing (aluminum or steel) is recommended. The choice of steel or aluminum is up to you. Aluminum is lighter but steel is cheaper and easier to bend. (Corrosion inhibitors in anti-freeze and products like Water Wetter will help keep rust at bay.) Whatever type of metal tubing you choose, it must be beaded on each end, if there's a hose clamped onto the tube, or the hose will blow off.

Security
A bead is a small raised area around the perimeter of the tube that the hose will slide over. Once the hose has been clamped in place over this bead, it will stay on securely even with the buildup of heat and pressure.


There are several ways to bead the end of a metal hose. The simplest way is to take it to a fabricating shop that has a beading tool the proper size for the tube. They can roll a bead onto the end of the tube for a nominal fee (about $25).

Beadwork
However, if you cannot locate a shop with a beader, there are two other options. One is to weld a bead around the perimeter of the tube, then file and dress it to a proper shape. This is a lot of work and, unless you are an experienced welder, probably not your best option. The other is to weld a slice of tubing on the end of the tube, as shown in the accompanying photos and captions.

Continued on Page 2

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Photo Guide

The finished tube, beaded on each end, is shown attached to a hose. Double clamps are cheap insurance.

Here is what you will need (left to right). A tubing cutter (or a hacksaw), a muffler pipe expander, the length of tubing you require (muffler pipe in this case), clamps and hoses. The tools shown are less than $15 each and can be found at discount tool stores.

Cut a 1/8-inch wide slice off the end of a piece of your tubing. The cutter makes it easy to keep it straight, but you can do the same thing with a hacksaw if you are careful.

Here is the slice. You will need one for each end of your tube.

File a bevel on one side of the slice (or you can do this on a bench grinder). Be careful and wear goggles.

Place the slice over the middle of the pipe expander. As you tighten the end bolt, it expands, stretching the slice outward. Stretch only as far as required slipping it tightly over the end of the tube.

Here is the slice, with the bevel to the inside, placed on the end of the tube.

Weld the slice to the end of the tube using a small tip on a gas welder. This is pretty simple welding and requires very little filler rod. The aim is to keep the slice in place, not provide a watertight seal.

Let the tube cool, then bevel the outer end to make hose installation easier.

Check-fit your hose. If everything is okay, you can paint the tube with a heat-resistant paint or have it powder coated.

Here is a water outlet with a beaded end. All water connections must be beaded or the hose will come off sooner or later, which can cause other damage.



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