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Our '69 Buick GS 400 engine looks a little rough now, but just wait. The first step is to remove the distributor by removing the cap, undoing the wire that runs to the coil and removing the distributor hold-down. Be sure to remember where the rotor is pointed.
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With the distributor removed from the engine, the rotor and breaker-point assembly is then removed. Then the drift pin attaching the distributor gear to the shaft is removed with a punch and the gear slides off the bottom and the distributor shaft slides out the top.
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It's not necessary, but we bead-blasted the distributor housing (the point plate is first removed by removing the snap ring that holds it in place), bought a new vacuum advance cannister (less than $10) and installed the new Pertronix grommet in the housing.
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The breaker-point plate was reinstalled onto the housing with the snap ring and the distributor shaft was greased and slid back in place. Then the Pertronix magnet ring is installed under the advance weight mechanism. The rotor is fastened to hold everything in place.
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Next, the Ignitor II module is fastened in place of the breaker points with the same two screws. The clearance between the Ignitor II module and the magnet ring is critical.
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The air gap between the Ignitor II module and the magnet ring must fall between .010-.060-inch. It can be adjusted by bending the Ignitor bracket or by installing .030-inch thick washers between the magnet ring and the advance weight shaft.
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Pertronix recommends its 40,000-volt Flame-Thrower II low-resistance coil to complement the Ignitor II ignition kit. It looks exactly like the stock coil but offers much more performance.
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The best part about the Pertronix Ignitor ignition kits is that everything fits under the stock distributor cap and, except for two wires exiting the distributor instead of one, the engine still looks stock.
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