Restoration
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No resto project is complete without a really righteous chrome job. When done right, it turns a dingy classic into a gleaming triumph. If you hit it wrong, though, the effect can be like a glamorous model with a big zit.

Restore or Replace?
To get some tips on correct chroming, we went to Shaver Automotive Restoration, a company that specializes in revitalizing hot rods and classic cars. Jim Luyk showed us a table full of metal trim pieces from a '62 Corvette that were in need of attention. Some could be repaired, while others were just too far gone, and would be a waste of time to have re-plated.


To decide which pieces are worth saving, the first step is a careful inspection, both inside and out. In addition to any dents or dings, look for corrosion and poor welds (the Vette is one of the few older cars that has welded-in brackets for the bumpers). Minor pitting on the surface is not usually a problem, but if rust is starting to eat away at the metal, the part may need to be replaced. The problem is that if the metal is too thin, during grinding and polishing the friction produces heat that can distort the surface and create ripples.

Protect
After the part has been chromed, Luyk recommends coating the inner surface with a rustproof silver paint in order to protect against corrosion that can migrate to the outer surface. One more tip: he says that a lot of chrome shops have long lead times, so start on those trim parts first, because you may have to wait several weeks or even months before you see them again.

Resource
Shaver Automotive Restoration, 1942 W. Artesia Blvd., Torrance, CA 90504, 310/532-0668


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Photo Guide

Use a felt-tip pen to mark areas that need repair. Smaller dings can be fixed by the chrome plater, but larger ones may need some welding before you send them out.

Corners are especially susceptible to damage, so check them carefully.

Surface pitting is usually not serious, but any dents that go into the metal will require filling.

Threaded studs and boltholes may need to be re-threaded or drilled out and replaced to ensure solid fastening.

The nut plate in this bracket broke loose, and when an earlier repair was attempted, the access hole created further damage, requiring replacement.

This is how the bracket and nut plate should look.

Inspect rust thoroughly to see how deep it goes into the metal.

Use a bead- or sand-blaster to remove scales and corrosion. Don't make the mistake of chroming over rust, because chrome platers usually won't bother to remove it, and it will eventually come to the surface.

This paper-thin bracket is too far gone. Don't bother chroming this piece.

This inner surface has been cleaned of rust and coated with silver paint to prevent corrosion from migrating to the outer surface.

Check the weld beads (if there are any), to make sure the brackets are affixed securely.


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