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Changing Motor Mounts
Keep your engine at bay
Tom Morr / autoMedia.com
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Installation Notes
> Original-equipment motor mounts usually have a hard-rubber component. For popular/enthusiast-oriented cars and trucks, the aftermarket offers harder-than-rubber polyurethane-core mounts. In general, urethane is more durable than rubber, but it tends to be stiffer, thus absorbing less vibration. Also, some companies manufacture urethane mounts in a variety of colors.
> The motor-mount replacement shown here is on a front-wheel-drive car with little free space in the engine compartment. A hydraulic lift was used to aid photography as well as the actual job. The jackstands-and-creeper method is possible, but is probably more time-consuming.
> Even if only one mount is damaged, consider replacing both at the same time. Lifting the engine's weight off its mounts is the most time-consuming part, so it should only take a few more minutes to replace the other side.
> Always remove the battery's negative cable prior to lifting and securing the vehicle.
> Barring accidents, motor mounts generally have a long service life. Replacing bad ones as soon as possible will limit damage to other components. In many cases, a fresh set of motor mounts will outlast the rest of the car.
Copyright autoMedia.com 2000-2009
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For popular cars and trucks, the aftermarket offers motor mounts made of OE-type rubber or even polyurethane. Mounts for other vehicles are dealership items. Regardless, replace both mounts.
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Consult a service manual for the best way to lift the engine's weight off its mounts. An engine hoist with fixture can be used from above, or a hydraulic jack can be rigged from below.
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Once the engine's weight is relieved, the mounts can be inspected. If they don't appear cracked or split, use a large screwdriver or prybar to see if the mount's flexible part moves.
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This front-wheel-drive car's front mount is removed by unbolting the upper nut from above and lower nuts from below.
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Here, radiator and crossmember clearances dictated that the front mount be swapped in and out through the fenderwell.
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With the engine's weight still relieved, this rear mount is swapped via one through-bolt and three nuts that attach to mount-mounted studs. Torque all fasteners to spec per the service manual.
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This cracked front mount allowed the engine to flop around under the hood, although not quite as bad as a gaffed albacore on the deck of a day-charter boat.
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