CarCare
change engine motor mounts

THUNK upon acceleration can be unnerving. It can also foreshadow an expensive fix if not diagnosed and corrected before serious damage is done.


One of the most likely places to look for throttle-induced noises is at the joints between the transmission and wheels. U-joints and CV-joints have finite service lives and are designed as weak links in the driveline—they're cheaper and easier to replace than gear-train parts.

Diagnosis Over time, the mount's flexible part figuratively becomes arthritic, losing its absorptive traits.
If the driveline joints pass muster and the problem still exists, zero in on the motor mounts. These mounts are designed to flex and absorb a certain amount of vibration inherent in any running engine. Over time, the mount's flexible part figuratively becomes arthritic, losing its absorptive its. In more extreme cases, the mount becomes fractured. This can allow the engine to literally clunk around under the hood, rotating under acceleration and other weight-transfer conditions. This engine movement transfers additional stress downstream to other driveline components. In worst-case scenarios, abrupt acceleration or braking can cause worn-out mounts to fail, sending the engine into the radiator or other places. Fan clicks against the radiator shroud is another telltale sign of bad motor mounts.


Motor-mount inspection isn't always easy. The typical mount combines metal mounting surfaces with hard rubber or polyurethane sandwiched in between. This flexible interior substance degrades over age, but even cracked rubber or urethane isn't always detectable to the naked eye. (Black rubber in concealed areas often doesn't reveal the true state of its health.)


To check motor mounts, consult a service manual for proper procedures for your vehicle. (Obviously, transversely mounted engines are secured differently than longitudinal ones.) The procedure often requires slightly elevating the engine to take its weight off the mounts, something that shouldn't be attempted by the ill-equipped or faint of heart.

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Photo Guide
rubber and polyurethan motor mounts
For popular cars and trucks, the aftermarket offers motor mounts made of OE-type rubber or even polyurethane. Mounts for other vehicles are dealership items. Regardless, replace both mounts.
lift engine weight off of mounts
Consult a service manual for the best way to lift the engine's weight off its mounts. An engine hoist with fixture can be used from above, or a hydraulic jack can be rigged from below.
lift engine weight to inspect mounts
Once the engine's weight is relieved, the mounts can be inspected. If they don't appear cracked or split, use a large screwdriver or prybar to see if the mount's flexible part moves.
front wheel drive motor mount removal
This front-wheel-drive car's front mount is removed by unbolting the upper nut from above and lower nuts from below.
remove motor mount through fender well
Here, radiator and crossmember clearances dictated that the front mount be swapped in and out through the fenderwell.
removal of rear motor mount
With the engine's weight still relieved, this rear mount is swapped via one through-bolt and three nuts that attach to mount-mounted studs. Torque all fasteners to spec per the service manual.
cracked front motor mount
This cracked front mount allowed the engine to flop around under the hood, although not quite as bad as a gaffed albacore on the deck of a day-charter boat.



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