Restoration
Continued from Page 1

The cost of anodizing varies, depending on the size of the part, but generally it's cheaper than chrome plating since it requires no polishing afterwards.

Anodizing at Home
There are a number of kits available for anodizing parts in small home shops. Most include containers for holding the chemicals, but some DIY anodizers prefer using insulated drink coolers which can be easily closed after use (do not reuse the coolers for drinks).


The etching baths and desmut chemicals can be bought from several sources, and sulphuric acid (intended for use in batteries) is available from auto supply stores. You can buy special power supplies to provide current, or a non-automatic battery charger can be used for small-scale work. Special dyes are made just for anodizing, although some home-shop anodizers swear by food dyes as a less expensive substitute.


As with chrome plating on steel parts, anodizing does not fill pits or mask ugly surfaces. You will want to thoroughly polish and prepare your parts before you get started. Although home plating is fairly complicated, it can be done without expensive equipment. In a home shop you can clean your parts with a lye soap solution and toothbrushes. The lye will also eat off old anodizing from parts that are being restored. Clean the parts in water to remove the lye.


The parts are then suspended in the anodizing tank with aluminum wire. The sulphuric acid solution is added (be sure to use gloves and goggles). Cathodes are suspended in the solution along with the parts, then the aluminum wire is connected to a power supply. The part is left to plate, then rinsed in cold water before dyeing and sealing. Consult your kit's instructions for specific details and plating times.

Continued on Page 3

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