Restoration
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A quick way to improve your car's acceleration without modifying your engine is to add a shift kit to your automatic transmission. This upgrade makes for a crisper, more precise response when shifting. It also makes the shift from First to Second gear shorter for a better launch, but with no loss of smoothness. It also corrects, reduces, or prevents early shifts, soft shifts and stacked or late shifts.

In Without Out
A shift kit is fairly easy to install and can be done without removing the transmission from the vehicle. This SK6 Valve Body shift kit upgrade by TransCo consists of a series of stronger springs and a needle valve that replaces a ball valve. Many of the high-performance transmissions and kits originally were designed for heavy-duty use in trucks, so they're plenty strong for racing or performance use. We used a Ford C-6 transmission for this article, but the procedure is about the same for most Ford and GM transmissions.


The number one killer of transmissions is heat, which is why we also installed a coated Hughes deep-dish transmission oil pan and external oil cooler. Before getting started, though, we took the new aluminum pan to Finish Line Coatings where they applied a high-polished aluminum finish, called Cermachrome. Ceramic thermal barrier coatings are formulated to retain heat and withstand high temperatures up to 1300 degrees F. Just coating the transmission oil pan will lower the oil temperature 15 degrees, according to Russ Meeks, the company's co-founder.


Finish Line coatings consist of high-temperature resins with ceramic and metallic particles in suspension. The coatings are applied in liquid form, cured and then baked at a high temperature. Certain finishes, such as Cermachrome, are polished as a final step.


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Photo Guide

Here is the stock transmission ready to be disassembled. The shift kit can be installed without taking the transmission out of the vehicle.

Remove the stock pan. Take note where the gearshift and kick-down levers are located in relation to the valve body. When the valve body is reinstalled the shift lever must fit back into the slot for the transmission to work correctly.

Unbolt and remove the valve body and screen as one unit as shown here.

Unbolt and remove the screen. If this is a used transmission, now is a good time to check the screen and the bottom of the pan for any filings or metal particles.

Set the valve body on a clear, clean workspace and lay out the four plastic bags included in the kit. Before proceeding, review the instruction photos closely to become familiar with the color-coded springs and the pointed check valve.

Starting with the smaller end, carefully remove the end plate exposing the throttle boost valve and a spring for the low scheduling valve. Replace the exposed stock spring with the white spring provided in the kit.

Very carefully replace the end cover. DO NOT tighten the bolts holding on the end cover until the two main valve body halves are reassembled.

Carefully remove the longer end cover.

Following the instruction photos, replace the five springs indicated.

The center valve comes in three different sizes. Measure this valve using the guide on the instructions or with a caliper, and then replace the factory spring with the correct color-coded spring. For the .300 and .318 sizes, use the brown spring; for the .338, use the orange one. Re-install the cover, but again, DO NOT tighten the bolts.

Next remove the boost valve cover. Replace the old springs with the blue inner and outer springs. Reinstall the cover plate and once again DO NOT tighten down the bolts until the two main valve body halves are reassembled.

Carefully unbolt and separate the two halves of the valve body assembly. #1 in the photo is the throttle pressure relief spring and check ball; #2 in the photo is a converter relief spring and a check ball. Remove the metal separator plate and the gasket, clean and set aside.

Replace the (#1) throttle pressure relief spring and check ball with the new pink spring and the new pointed check valve. Next replace the converter relief spring with the new yellow spring and place the check ball back on top of the new spring.

Next, drill a .076 hole from left to right through this metal partition. Before actually drilling the hole, fill the indentations with paper napkin to make it easier to remove the filings from the drill.

Now, place the metal separator plate and the gasket on the bench. The gasket must not cover any holes in the separator plate, especially at these two places.

This hole, which is clearly marked on the diagram with the directions, must be drilled out to .089. Now we are ready to reassemble the valve body with the new shift kit, and finally tighten all the bolts. And, oh yes, don't forget to fill the transmission with fluid!



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