CarCare
Continued from Page 2
Caster
Caster is the angle of steering pivot in degrees. Just as water skiers lean backward for stability, most vehicles are designed with slight negative caster—the upper balljoint is to the rear of the lower balljoint (similar to the front wheels on a shopping cart).


Clues to caster problems include the vehicle pulling to one side (the one with less positive caster). Heavy steering and wheel hopping over bumps are signs of too much positive caster, and light steering but excessive wander are clues of too much negative caster. Aligning-to-spec usually involves repairing or replacing chassis parts, so the average motorist is probably better off leaving caster corrections to the pros.


Taking a few minutes to check your alignment will make your tires last longer and your vehicle handle better. Even if you choose to have a shop align the vehicle, you'll have a better idea of the problem—and knowledge normally equals power.

Find out what vehicles qualify for the government stimulus, Cash for Clunkers program.


Resources



Eastwood Company, www.eastwoodcompany.com

Continued on Page 4

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Photo Guide

Irregular tread wear signals alignment problems. A saw-tooth pattern (left) indicates a toe problem, and beveled wear (right) points to camber problems. (Courtesy Hunter Engineering)

Toe is the fore-and-aft difference in tire distance. Most vehicles are slightly toe-in for a lighter steering feel and to keep a slight pre-load on wheel bearings. (Courtesy Hunter Engineering)

To check the toe, park the vehicle on level ground with the tires straight ahead and the steering wheel centered. Jack up one of the front tires, secure the vehicle on jackstands, then spray-paint a stripe on the tread while spinning the tire.

Scribe a sharp concentric line in the paint on the tread by spinning the tire. We used a small nail held in a mini vise and lightly pressed against the tread to ensure a straight line.

Here's a detailed shot of the scribed line. Try to position the line on the tread blocks to make the line as continuous as possible for easier measuring. Perform the same steps on the other tire.

Measure from line to line with the tape level with the floor.

Measure again on the tires' backsides. Make sure that the tape is level and the same distance above the ground as it was for the front reading. Compare the two measurements to reveal the toe, accounting for measurements taken lower than at the tires' center for actual toe.

This vehicle exhibited 1/8-inch too much toe-in. The adjustment begins by loosening the tie-rod adjuster sleeves. Penetrating lubricant helps break the nuts loose.

Assuming that the steering wheel is already centered, adjust the tie-rods on each side the same amount. Roll the vehicle back and forth several feet a few times to transfer your adjustment to the tires, then re-measure the toe. Repeat this step until the toe is within spec.

Torque the adjuster-sleeve nuts to factory specs to complete the adjustment.

Many aftermarket companies offer alignment tools that check toe. (Courtesy Eastwood Co.)

Camber measures tire lean. Camber isn't adjustable on many front-wheel-drive cars, and an out-of-spec measurement usually indicates bent or worn part(s) on these vehicles.

To check camber, make sure that vehicle is parked on level ground. If not, factor the ground slope into the camber reading. Then place a straight edge across the wheel (use the inner lip if the outer is nicked or uneven) and use an angle finder to reveal camber.



Related Articles
Steering Rack Replacement
Camber Caster Toe Adjustment
Front End Rehab
Wandering Woes?
Power Steering Box Replacement


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