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There is no great mystery to the operation of an internal combustion automobile engine. An automobile engine is essentially an air pump. The pistons and valves work together to draw in and expel air into the combustion chambers as the engine assembly spins round on the crankshaft. The faster this assembly spins, the more air the engine can draw through. Add fuel—in the right amount and spark at the correct moment to this air pump—and the internal combustion equation is complete. Power! With so much air being drawn into the engine from the outside, it is of utmost importance this air enters the engine as clean as possible. It is also important that this flow of air is not restricted in any way.

Front Line Defense
The front line of defense an engine has to fight dirty air with is the air filter. Every molecule of air entering the engine comes through the air filter. Not only does the air filter scrub the incoming air of harmful particulates, it also allows the incoming air to flow freely. Since every bit of crud in the air flowing into the engine stays in the filtration material the air filter is made from, the air filter must be replaced at regular intervals. A dirty and clogged air filter not only loses its ability to clean incoming air, but also offers a restriction to incoming flow. This restriction can result in poor engine performance and loss of efficiency. The good news is that changing an air filter is easy and inexpensive.

Finding the Filter
The first step to changing the air filter is to find it. Open the owner's manual before opening the hood. Find the page that reveals locations of underhood service points and the illustration that shows where the air filter is. If there is no owner's manual, open the hood and look for either a football-sized box opposite the battery, or large circular unit or flat panel box atop the engine. Note locations and types of fasteners, clips, and hold-downs before removing anything.


If you have a digital camera, snap a "before" picture so that all turns out well afterwards. Take care while working not to poke anything into the airflow sensor. Air filters are cheap. Replacement airflow sensors are not. Also take it easy on older, high mileage vehicles. Ham-fisted handling can damage intake hoses and tubes made brittle by years of exposure to underhood engine heat.


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Back in the days of carbureted engines, the air filter was a big donut-looking unit that usually sat in a housing on top of the carburetor itself. Changing out the air filter involved removing the housing lid wingnut, the lid itself, and swapping out old for new.

Automotive engineers were able to become more flexible with engine intake configurations as fuel systems moved away from carburetors and into fuel injection. Fuel injectors mix fuel and air into the engine right at the intake to the combustion chamber, eliminating the need to mix fuel and air in the intake manifold itself.

The airflow Sensor is crucial to the operation of a modern fuel injected vehicle, and must be kept clean. A clean air filter means a clean sensor. Use care not to damage the airflow sensor or intake tubes when replacing the air filter.

Here is an example of a flat panel air filter and air box. The air box and surrounding material also serves to dampen engine sound emanating from the intake. These baffles and materials can keep things quiet, but are sometimes a compromise between maximum flow and quiet operation.

Performance air filters and cold air intake kits replace the factory setup and offer little in the way of sound and air restriction. This upgrade can deliver mild horsepower gains along with the growling sound of engine performance. The filters themselves can also be repeatedly cleaned and reused.


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