Air-Line Controller

Unless tangible debris is jamming the valve, cleaning will generally do it no good, and it will have to be replaced. Other manufacturers have made these valves more accessible, some less, but replacement is not beyond the skills of a decently equipped do-it-yourselfer.

Replacement Tips
On the Toyota engine, the valve is visible without the need to remove anything. In order to actually replace it, though, the intake air-pipe and coupler WILL have to be removed for access. Exercise care when working on the attached hoses and pipes, as the rubber and plastic don't take kindly to force.


It's best to attempt the replacement procedure with a cold engine, as there are coolant hoses connected to the valve. These provide a flow of warm coolant to the valve to keep it from freezing in low temp/high humidity conditions.


The trickiest part of the operation is removing the four Phillips-head pan screws, which attach the valve to the throttle body. Note the need for a "stubby" Phillips screwdriver, and a ratchet with a bit and extension, which will greatly assist you in accessing and removing these screws. You won't have an absolutely straight shot at all four screws, so be patient and careful. You may otherwise strip the drive on the screw head (what an annoying development that would be!).


Make sure to replace the sealing O-ring with a new one, and make sure it's properly seated before installing the valve. Otherwise you may end up with a coolant leak at the valve. Then, just button it up in the reverse order of removal, and you're there. When you next start the engine, the idle should go up to approximately 1500 rpm, and gradually decrease shortly thereafter. Mission accomplished.