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Affordable Exhaust Manifold Swap
When cast iron gives up the ghost
Tom Morr / autoMedia.com
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Historically, most cars and trucks have used cast-iron exhaust manifolds to scavenge spent gasses from the engine's cylinder heads. The rationale: Cast iron has good thermal properties, so such items such as spark plug wires can be routed closer to it than to other materials which expel more heat. Also, cast-iron manifolds are apparently cost-effective to produce in mass quantities.
Engine vibration can cause the increasingly brittle metal to crack.
Temperature fluctuations cause metal to fatigue over time. Exhaust manifolds aren't exempt from this fact. Engine vibration can cause the increasingly brittle metal to crack, and failure at the bolt locations is another common problem. Also, water is a byproduct of the combustion process, so exhaust manifolds can rust from the inside out. The fix seems simple: replace the dead part with a new one.
Aftermarket Solution
One potential drawback: cost. After pricing the cost of factory-replacement exhaust manifolds for a '93 Chevy 350 (about $560 at the local dealership), we looked for more-affordable options. Aftermarket headers (sometimes known as tubular exhaust manifolds) emerged as an attractive alternative. Header prices can vary significantly, based on the materials used to make them and the "performance engineering" that goes into their design. For example, stainless steel is more expensive than mild steel, thermal-barrier coatings add to the cost and factors such as making each primary tube the exact same length can present a manufacturing/engineering puzzle.
Our quest led to a set of direct-replacement "shorty" headers. Sourced from a large mail-order parts supplier, the header kit arrived at the door for a little more than $170. Aside from an approximate $400 savings compared to new cast-iron manifolds, these headers offer a few other advantages. First and foremost, they're designed to occupy the same space as the manifolds they replace: no additional exhaust modification, spark-plug wire routing problems and such. The drawbacks are that performance gains are often unnoticeable from the driver's seat (contrary to the manufacturer's claims), headers can radiate more heat into the engine compartment (causing plug-wire failure among other considerations), steel is more likely to leak than cast iron, and durability can be a concern on non-thermal-coated headers.
The $400 Question
In this case, the economic benefits outweigh any potential performance compromises. These headers replace the exhaust manifolds on a 200,000-mile daily driver, and we aren't expecting another 200,000 from the engine. Furthermore, these particular aftermarket headers have 3/8-inch-thick cylinder-head flanges, fat enough to stave off warping from the heat generated by a stock Chevy 350 V-8. However, they're coated by high-temp paint as opposed to a more-expensive ceramic coating.
Copyright autoMedia.com 2000-2008
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Remove spark plug wires and any other wiring or plumbing necessary to access the manifold bolts. Undo the manifold at the cylinder head and exhaust pipe.
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On some vehicles, other engine accessories might need to be removed before the exhaust manifold will come free.
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This manifold survived 200,000 miles over 10 years before the metal finally fatigued and the collector-flange/exhaust-pipe bolts failed.
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"Shorty" or "stubby" headers are engineered to be direct replacements for the exhaust manifold. They should shimmy in the same way the manifold came out.
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Insert the necessary gaskets between the cylinder head and header flange, then torque the bolts to spec.
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Often, the header's collector flange must be bolted to the exhaust pipe from underneath the vehicle. A gasket seals the flanges. Install the oxygen sensor if necessary. (We used an old sensor as a plug here.)
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Button up the spark plug wires and anything else that was undone to make clearance. Start the engine and check for leaks around all areas with gaskets, being careful of hot and moving parts.
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