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Open the shift kit packaging and check for detailed instructions. Some kits come with a video to show you each step. Make sure you have everything you need for the trans modifications?is it in the kit, or do you have to buy it? Don't forget little things like the correct drill bits.
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After your vehicle is safely supported, remove the 13mm trans pan bolts. The two at the back corners should be left secure until you're ready to drain the fluid. Holding the pan up, loosen the last two corner bolts and let the pan tilt down at the front, draining the fluid. A cool transmission makes this job a lot less painful.
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As you remove the trans filter, examine its condition. If it's dirty, it should be replaced with a new one when things are screwed back together. Properly filtered fluid will add years of life to your transmission.
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Next we unplug the lock-up converter wiring harness. The harness can be moved out of the way while the valve body is removed. No alterations are needed here.
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Remove the auxiliary valve-body tube, which transfers fluid to the forward clutch accumulator. Thoroughly clean all parts with solvent before reinstallation. This is particularly important with an older transmission that has accumulated internal contaminants.
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The First-Second gear accumulator is now taken out by removing three 10mm bolts. All parts removed should be placed aside in a clean area for modification or reinstallation.
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The valve body can be dropped free by removing twelve 10mm bolts. More fluid will drain from the valve body?keep your drain pan under the work area until all the parts are removed and the dripping stops (trans fluid is slippery).
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In order to extract the flat separator plate for modification, the auxiliary valve body must be removed. Remove the two 10mm and one 8mm bolts, and the unit will pop right out.
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The valve body separator plate and gaskets can now be taken out of the trans case. This plate will receive several important modifications allowing you to choose the level of performance you desire.
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The Fourth gear accumulator piston and spring are now removed from the case. Put them aside with the other parts your have already pulled out.
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The pressure regulator, boost bushing and spring are now extracted. These parts will not be reused.
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A new pressure regulator valve (parts on left) with larger grooves, new bushing and spring are substituted for the stock parts. The new parts will provide more line pressure and better response, which will make your shifts firmer. They are reinstalled in the same order as removed and secured with a C-clip.
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There are two types of valve bodies (1982-87 and 1988-up) in the 700R4. To identify which you have, refer to the instructions. If only one hole is present you have the later valve-body style. Detailed instructions will carry you through the modifications for either type.
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Three drill bits are included with the kit. Here we drill a 0.110-inch pilot hole to be enlarged to 0.157-inch with a second bit. The location of the hole is exactly detailed in the instructions?it assists in allowing the trans to be downshifted to any gear at any rpm.
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Now we'll permanently fix the throttle valve hang-up problem. The rolled pin is removed first followed by the plunger, spring and throttle valve. The stock assembly is on the left with the new parts on the right.
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A small flat spacer is inserted into the new throttle valve spring. This "boot strap" spacer limits spring compression, preventing the valve from sticking. The new throttle valve also has self-cleaning lands, completely eliminating the sticky throttle valve problem.
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The line bias valve is now removed (stock parts on right) and will be replaced with new parts on the left. Notice the difference in the springs?the replacement is larger. Install the new spring and replace the assembly as removed.
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The Third-Second control valve and spring (on left) are removed from the valve body and will be replaced with the larger valve and smaller spring on the right. This change allows you to hold manual low gear to any rpm and to downshift to low from any rpm.
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Another hole is drilled in the valve body, per the instructions, into the Third-Second control valve area and the new valve assembly is reinstalled. This finishes the valve body modifications.
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Now we start the mods to the separator plate. Some new holes must be drilled and some existing holes filled. Be sure to follow the instructions. Mark the holes to be filled with the aluminum plugs supplied in the kit. Place the plate on a hard, clean, flat surface and flatten the plug into the hole with a hammer. File the surface of the separator plate smooth.
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Next, mark the holes to be enlarged with the bits supplied in the kit. After all the filling and drilling is done, carefully check your work against the instruction sheet illustration to make sure all alterations have been performed correctly. Double-checking here can save a lot of disassembly and swearing later on.
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A little red grease will hold the new gaskets to both sides of the separator plate during reinstallation. Your kit should supply the gaskets.
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The Second-Fourth gear servo is now removed from the side of the case. It is retained by a large metal O-ring, which must be pried out of its groove. New servo parts should be in the kit. They will increase the holding capacity for second gear and provide firmer, more positive shifts. The modified servo is then reinstalled in the case.
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Small plugs are inserted in the low-reverse clutch, governor circuit and Fourth gear accumulator. Gently tap them into place with a hammer.
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The Fourth gear accumulator piston and original spring are now reinstalled, but due to the plugs it becomes an empty circuit.
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The First-Second accumulator and the original parts are on the left. Your kit should supply adjustment shims, and you'll normally use two. These shims partially control 1-2 shift firmness. Two new springs are also installed.
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The transmission can now be completely reassembled. Several check balls are installed on the separator plate and it is reinstalled followed by the valve body. After the other parts are in place and the trans pan secured, add four quarts of fluid, then top it off until trans is full. Drive the vehicle and check the level again. The change in shift quality will be immediately apparent and the throttle valve problem eliminated.
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