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The aftermarket offers several different configurations of the venerable weatherpack connector. You can specify single-pin, two-, three-, four-, or six-pin models. All are engineered with double lock mechanisms, as laid out in the text.
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When you purchase a weatherpack connector from the aftermarket (MSD, ACCEL, Painless Wiring and others sell them), you’ll find the kit includes an appropriate number of terminal pins (male and female) along with a selection of end seals, but they’re available separately (especially convenient if you make a mistake during the assembly process).
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Terminal pins (shown) are the components inside the connector that do the job of transferring electricity. Each pin is configured as either female or male (as is each half of the connector). The terminal pins are equipped with double lock tangs that secure the pin within the connector body. By design, they can’t loosen once assembled (without a special tool).
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These are the silicone seals used during the assembly of each tower in the connector. The seal is designed to prevent contamination from entering the area adjacent to the wire. Each seal incorporates multiple sealing ribs to keep the terminal pins dry and clean. The connector is sealed as well.
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The key to assembling weatherpack connectors at home is this trio of tools. Without these tools, you can’t work with weatherpacks. MSD sells this set of crimping pliers that are designed for the job along with a special pin extraction tool that's designed to disassemble a completed connector.
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Prior to assembling the connector, strip the wire first. The crimping pliers offer several different locations for stripping different gauges of wire. Remove approximately 3/16-inch of insulation away.
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Next, slide the cable seal onto wire. Examine the orientation of the seal: The sealing ribs should face away from the stripped portion of the wire.
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Face the engraved side of the tool toward you and open it completely. Slip the pin terminal into position from the opposite (unmarked) side of the tool. Place the pin conductor tabs (the inner set on the pin terminal on the "B" anvil marked on the tool surface. Line up the terminal so that the circular portion of the tabs rests in the curved surface of the anvil. The two tabs should face up into the pointed side of the anvil. Next, close the tool very slightly. The idea here is for the tool to lightly grasp the pin terminal.
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Insert the wire into the pin terminal. Move the seal forward to the end of the wire insulation (to the point where the wire has been stripped away). Push the wire into the pin terminal to a point where the seal stops in the insulation tabs.
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Next, crimp the wire into the pin by slowly squeezing the handles. Squeeze the handles until the jaws of the pliers have fully closed. The crimp can be tested by pulling back on the wire. Obviously, if nothing moves, you've made a proper crimp. If the wire moves in the terminal, it’s best start again. You can either use a new terminal pin or attempt to straighten the original one (usually easier said than done).
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Move the terminal and wire forward to the section of the pliers anvil marked "A.” The open portion of the second set of tabs must face one side of the anvil center (these hold the insulation seal). The rounded portion of the terminal must face the rounded portion of the anvil. Next, close the pliers lightly, allowing the jaws to bend one insulation tab at a time. Proceed to the second tab then rotate the terminal so the first tab is in a position to be crimped. What you’re doing is to alternate crimping each insulation tab until both form a circle. If the insulation tabs are pinched beyond a full circle the terminal won't be waterproof.
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You can now insert the wire assembly pin terminal first into the plastic connector keeping in mind that male pin terminals go into male connector bodies and female pin terminals go into female connector bodies. ?As the pin is inserted, there should be an audible "click." Test the finished product by pulling backward on the wire. A correctly assembled and locked wire cannot pull back through the plastic connector. Repeat the process for the female pin terminals. If a mistake is made, rewind the process, but with a fresh pin terminal.
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To remove a pin terminal simply insert the special extraction tool as shown. Push in and it will unlatch the pin lock tangs. Don’t place excessive side pressure on this little tool as it is relatively thin (and somewhat fragile).
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Here’s a finished weatherpack connector. What you’ve assembled is a reliable, environment-proof, wide-temperature connector. Other connectors are available, but weatherpacks are likely the only high-end models you can work with at home using inexpensive hand tools.
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